I've been using Moebius 9415 to oil the pallet stone. I usually oils the exit pallet impulse face with the amount like you drop a little bubble on it.
I really don't know how much amount I should applied and is there any sign to tell whether I'm overoil or underoil.
I have one strange case though, the movement right after assembly has 260~270 amplitude but drop to 230 after 10 minus or so. Is this relevent to the pallet stone oiling?
Good evening all , just wondering do any of you guys or gals like to use capillary fountain oilers . I have been using them combined with dip oilers for a while and I must say I enjoy using the capillary oilers some times over the dip oilers . Am I old fashioned or what ?
Hi Fellow People,
Im reaching out as I’m currently learning all I can about watchmaking, and am working through the BHI distance learning technicians course, with my exam booked for May.
I will need to service a quartz watch as part of my practical exam, and am learning about watch lubrication.
A few months ago I found a great article that covered the technique for dipping and collecting the right amount of oil on the oiler, such as the speed and angle of the dip, however, I now can’t find it anywhere, no matter how much I search the internet
Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction of instructions specifically on oil collection on the oiler? As you will know there is lots on the actual oiling process but not the oil collection process.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
These jewels are from my very first ETA movement that I'm servicing (cal. 1080), and none of the movements I've been working on so far (Vostoks, Poljots, and a Unitas 6498) has had jewels like these. My question is simply how to oil them? They do look a lot like cap jewels and maybe that's what they are called? If I were to guess I would say that they should be oiled the same way that spring cap jewels are oiled, but I'd really like to know for sure. And, while I'm at it, what's the purpose of these non-springed "cap jewels"? I've also seen them in pictures of some really old movements having a balance without a shock spring.
The movement comes from my grandfather's (born 1910) Ernest Borel Incastar which we believe he bought sometime in the early 1960-ties. It's a family heirloom, and I've been waiting to service it until having worked up some confidence. I had no idea it harboured an ETA movement so that was a pleasant and rather exciting surprise. As far as I know, it has never been serviced.
As can be seen in the above picture it has a really interesting regulator mechanism, and I actually found this ad for it on eBay. Setting the rate I would assume is just a matter of rotating that five-pointed "star", but I wonder if that entire arm can be slid to regulate the beat error?
Do you oil the shouldered “safety” screws that hold in place the coupling clutch 8080, the sliding gear 8100 or the hammer 8219? If so, do you also put a very tiny drop of hp 1300 under them?
you can find the entire doc here: http://watchguy.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Le-Landeron-48.pdf
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From the fact that the repeater is operated from a push button and not a slide I would say this is a LePhare movement. These were the "Timex" of complications in the day, the mechanisms were simplified to enable something resembling mass production, and the overall fit and finish of things aren't close to what might have come from the Vallee de Joux (AP, JLC, Patek, etc.). That said, it is still an interesting watch- just not worth the same as the higher end makes.
Hello, I got an old Orient Deluxe with an Orient 4951 movement in it. I tried to look on the web for technical documentation on this movement but I could not find anything. Please if you have any technical doc that will help me a lot in my project. Thanks in advance
Thank you everyone for your input. It is very informative. I haven’t actually tried yet to adjust the beat error closer to the zero reading because the watch is running so accurate at the moment. It has now been five days and the watch has only lost 14 seconds to date. Can I ask another question then please. If the watch is running so accurately (in my opinion) what is the benefit in trying to get the beat error back to zero on the time grapher. Will it damage anything if left as it is? Thanks again all for your responses