Jump to content

Timex Q Quartz


Recommended Posts

I just received my Timex Q Quartz. It is running fine but appears to have fungus on the dial. Battery hatch gasket was missing and the case gasket was damaged. 

Full of lint inside. There was a whole ring of lint wound around the winding stem. Looked like a felt washer. :D

And I found another "felt washer" under the hands. Should have taken photos of it to see if it would win any prize.

In spite if all the foreign bodies inside, the watch was still keeping good time.

Can anyone identify the movement inside?

I would be grateful if someone could post the tech sheet for this movement. :thumbsu:

20200804_221946.jpg

20200804_221920.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The movement spacer has the number M64 on it. But from Dr Ranfft's website, it looks more like a M63.

Anyway, the movement is running fine, accurate to about 3 seconds a day. So I decided to leave it alone. I only cleaned up the dial, relumed the hands and polished the case.

20200806_222409.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had to take my Q Quartz apart to check. It stopped on my wrist 3 times today.

Found quite a few magnetic particles stuck to various parts inside the movement. 

Being a quartz watch, I thought I've seen the last of my good friend - the contact spring. But lo and behold.... it's still here! :startle:

Battling several technical problems at home and at work this week. It'll be some time before I can get down to putting it back together.

20200812_202223.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love and hate these electric q quartz watches.

When they run they usually run well if they don't my success rate at servicing is 50%.

I hate the day and date indexing springs which are really fiddly and then you have a dial with tabs to fit over them its painful!

Fitting the coil balance, near a magnet also has its moments of frustration. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I couldn't sleep thinking about this watch. So I got up at 1 am to fix it. 

1 hour ago, Melt said:

Love and hate these electric q quartz watches.

When they run they usually run well if they don't my success rate at servicing is 50%.

I hate the day and date indexing springs which are really fiddly and then you have a dial with tabs to fit over them its painful!

Fitting the coil balance, near a magnet also has its moments of frustration. 

I agree with everything you said. There are days when it would take me almost an hour to get the gear train in. But tonight, everything went smoothly. :D

It's ticking again. Let's see if it'll behave now. :sleep:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

This watch worked fine for about 6 months then recently it stops intermittently. 

I took everything apart and cleaned them again. While regulating the watch, I noticed that one end of the trimmer on the pcb was lifted. When I poked at it to investigate further, the entire trimmer fell off. There doesn't appear to be any solder on the trimmer leads or the pcb pads, just a couple of blobs what appears to be epoxy. I know this watch was manufactured inthe 70's, during the infancy of smd technology, but to expect good electrical contact with a few blobs of glue?

I'll try soldering it back tomorrow but my hands were trembling quite badly just now, due to the side effects of my 2nd dose of Covid vaccine. I had ALL the known side effects of the vaccine, headache, bodyaches, joint pain, fever, chills, tiredness...

I hope there are no permanent side effects. ?

20210204_231752.jpg

20210204_231724.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/7/2020 at 8:46 PM, HectorLooi said:

The movement spacer has the number M64 on it. But from Dr Ranfft's website, it looks more like a M63.

Anyway, the movement is running fine, accurate to about 3 seconds a day. So I decided to leave it alone. I only cleaned up the dial, relumed the hands and polished the case.

20200806_222409.jpg

Nice.  What did you use for lume?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

This watch worked fine for about 6 months then recently it stops intermittently. 

I took everything apart and cleaned them again. While regulating the watch, I noticed that one end of the trimmer on the pcb was lifted. When I poked at it to investigate further, the entire trimmer fell off. There doesn't appear to be any solder on the trimmer leads or the pcb pads, just a couple of blobs what appears to be epoxy. I know this watch was manufactured inthe 70's, during the infancy of smd technology, but to expect good electrical contact with a few blobs of glue?

I'll try soldering it back tomorrow but my hands were trembling quite badly just now, due to the side effects of my 2nd dose of Covid vaccine. I had ALL the known side effects of the vaccine, headache, bodyaches, joint pain, fever, chills, tiredness...

I hope there are no permanent side effects. ?

Get well soon Hectorlooi.....

If you can't fix it PM me as I should have a spare circuit board.

BTW I'm looking for the date spring for few watches like these.....they always seem to be broken!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

This is beginning to look like a never ending project. While checking the performance on the timegrapher, the jaws slipped and took out an hour index and the Timex logo. ?

 

No! Bad Luck but it should be an easy fix for someone with your skills. I have some similar clean dials for GP models if needed.

I need a battery clamp like you have.

Edited by Melt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

I made it out of copper wire in 5 minutes.

I like the battery clip too.  Timex did make these for many of the early battery ops.  I have to dig a few up to show. But in the meantime, I did work on an early big "Q" today myself.    The checked my NOS stock and found a replacement bezel and stem\crown. Looks great with the original stretch strap too.

145912874_438654447443938_226960028991203185_n.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I dont understand why a patreon membership would have limited places ??
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. It’s highly unlikely you will be able to purchase a new bezel look on eBay for a pulsar watch for repair to find a bezel.
    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
×
×
  • Create New...