Jump to content

Abercrombie Fitch shipmate movement ID help

cduke

By cduke
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

cduke WRT Addict

cduke

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello all,

I need to find parts for this military watch from Abercrombie & Fitch from the 40’s. I don’t think it is an Heuer movement but was wondering if anyone could help ID it. I looked on Ranfft site but could not tell how to begin a search. Thanks for the help.  Ps it has a sundial for seconds in lower center.

FB3EC34D-D12B-42C0-9748-BB68FF403278.jpeg

Edited by cduke
Additional info
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
Posted (edited)

First I was thinking of a FHF then I changed my mind and will go with a The General Watch Co - Helvetia, Helvetia 81.
If you can get a shot so one can see the keyless I think it will be easier to identify....

Edited by HSL
forgott to write the model
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Penfold Member

Penfold

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

Thanks for the link to my site.

To really find out about these watches and all the innovations in them have a look at my page on shock and water protected watches:

https://www.helvetiahistory.co.uk/1930s-sports-watches

The Abercrombie and Fitch watches are under the 'other brand names' at the bottom. Including a picture of your watch I believe from when it was on eBay.

These watches were developed and completely manufactured by Helvetia, incorporating more water and shock proof features over the years, though sometimes sold under other names e.g. Huber and Aero.

Thanks. 

Carl

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • mikepilk
      Setting lever spring

      By mikepilk · Posted

      The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I printed the base and it is a bit too large to fit on the base of the hand setter. The ring bumps into the column so it is unable to full seat on the central ring. I'm going to try removing some of the materal and see if I can't get it to go down.
×
×
  • Create New...