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Thanks for your replies very helpful.

I have now gone with the cheaper option of Quadralene clean & rinse[emoji6]

They were very helpful, although I had to sit down at £20 postage!!![emoji50] AND that is mot next day ..... ordered Wednesdayvand expecting it on Monday!?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

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Good Morning to you all and I hope you are all keeping safe and well during these dark hours.Can anyone advise me on if its safe to clean the watch plate with the balance attached in an Ultrasonic cleaner using Elma WF Pro watch cleaning solution then in a rinse of Elma Suprol Pro watch cleaning rinse?? I have usually used Essence of Renata for the balance but after cleaning movements by hand I decided to invest in an ultrasonic tank and would like some advice on general movement cleaning with Ultrasonic Cleaning tanks.Any information will be gratefully received,many thanks to all and stay safe,Regards Seth.

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Hi  I would suggest that its not best practice to clean the balance in situ. And again not in the ultrasonic. It is best to treat the balance as a separate entity  from the movement and clean  on its own in your own chosen preparation(essecence of Renata).             Cheers

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1 hour ago, Seth said:

Can anyone advise me on if its safe to clean the watch plate with the balance attached in an Ultrasonic cleaner using Elma WF Pro watch cleaning solution then in a rinse of Elma Suprol Pro watch cleaning rinse?? I have usually used Essence of Renata for the balance but after cleaning movements by hand I decided to invest in an ultrasonic tank and would like some advice on general movement cleaning with Ultrasonic Cleaning tanks.

What about a good read on our comprehensive, pinned topic:

 

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Many thanks for all of your help and replies,I will experiment with an old scrap movement that looks like it has been lubricated with Castrol Agricultural Grease but all I wanted this movement for was screws.Once again many thanks and keep safe.Regards,Seth.

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if it's a modern watch with removable balance jewels I find it's best to put the balance wheel back into the watch screw down its bridge remove the balance jewels. Then you can run it through the ultrasonic just fine. otherwise I just put the balance complete a separate basket when I run it through the cleaning machine so nothing else bumps into it.

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  • 1 month later...

hello all , hope everyone is well, i reside in the hudson valley , just above the state of New Jersey,

can someone please tell me where i can by L&R cleaning fluid , a cleaner & a rinse ??

what is a fair price for these items and  what is shipping these days ???

please post , many thanks, rocky

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I am setting up cleaning watches  something I have not done since about 1980.

I have the following machines .
,I have  two ultra sonics and really old L&R master.
what is the correct L&R cleaning fluid to use in my machines ??

 i found two rinses in the garage[ almost empty ] 
L&R watch rinsing solution with duo-lube watch lubricant #1 added [ use in first rinse]


L&R ultra sonic watch rinsing solution .
what are the cost these days , I remember Dad having cases delivered its seems every couple of weeks.

please post , I could really use assistance, please post.
 many thanks, rocky

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What type of ultrasonic machines do you have?

 

For the conventional L&R spinning machine, you need a cleaning solution for the first jar. Regarding your two rinse fluid types, people generally turn their noses up at lubricating rinses these days. However, if you want to be less wasteful, you could use the lubricated rinse as the first rinse, and use the plain rinse as a final rinse which would remove the lubricant. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to resurrect an old thread... 

I'm completing Mark's course but I don't think the cleaning process is clear enough for me.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner, so would the steps would be:

1.  Water in US cleaning m/c

2. Place parts in a jar with L&R fine watch cleaner

3. Clean for 10/15mins (heat or no heat?)

4. Dry parts or not?

5. Place parts in jar with L&R rinse (or 99.9 IPA), heat or no heat?

6. Clean for 5mins

7. Dry parts ready for re-assembly.

Trying to get this straight in my head but I keep finding conflicting posts/videos etc..

Many thanks

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Very often asked question -  fully answered in the pinned topic 

However, to return some brightness you need an horological ammonia based solution.
Rinse with petroleum ether (aka benzine, which is NOT benzene). Do not use lighter fluid as you will spend more per liter, and it's made to burn not to clean.

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It is perfectly safe to use Ronsonol lighter fluid; I used it all the time for the balance and pallets for all watches. It is also shellac friendly. You will need a small container with a screw top as it evaporates very quickly. Expensive if you use it for complete movement cleaning. Some on here use those cheap ultrasonic cleaners you can get from ebay.   

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1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

It is perfectly safe to use Ronsonol lighter fluid; 

I didn't said that isn't safe; I said that's more expensive, and not an horological product as it not purified enough. It is not recommended by any maker or book, they all mention benzine.

 

benzine.png.9fd24894427c8158cac40cfa0e43904e.png

 

Above from a 1904 book, much truth in the statements above ?

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So, you are using L&R oil-based?

In that case, I would not recommend any heating, and make sure you keep the fluid in a separate jar such that you are cleaning “indirectly”. The flash point of L&R oil-based is around 25c. 
 

Regarding your numbered points:

3. Personally I’d add a swirl. We don’t know how powerful your cleaner is, but 5 mins / swirl / 5 mins may be enough. Experience will answer this question. 
 

4. Dont dry, but remove as much cleaning fluid as possible. Lint-free kitchen towel may help. 
 

5. I don’t think alcohol with act as a solvent for petroleum-based cleaner. Use L&R rinse. 
 

6. You are not cleaning. You are rinsing. Swirl the jar. Perhaps 1 min of ultrasonic action may help. You could consider running a separate 1st rinse and 2nd rinse. 

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I clean and rinse ( hairsprings/balance completes)  fork/pallets and escape wheel in lighter fluid and clean other parts in avgas( aviation gas) cuz its cheaper. You might use naphta instead.

Of the parts you show, you can soak balance+cock, fork and escape wheel in lighter fluid, balance+ cock seperate from the other two. I soak the rest in coca-cola over 24 to 48 hrs , brush with a tooth brush use powdered detergent as abrasive/cleaner, keep brushing under tap water as a rinse. The better you use the powder as abrasive the shinnker parts get.

Haven't yet been able to source petrolium ether to try. 

Pin pallets break/ bend easily, handle it as you do hairspring.

 

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On 8/20/2018 at 3:44 AM, dieale2 said:

I found this post to be useful. Especially the part about refining petroleum.

I really don't like using lighter fluid because the purity of it is a pot shot. I was using Publix Quick Light and it leaves a lot of residue. The problem here is that they aren't meant for cleaning things. They COULD be pure naphtha but they could also not be. It's depends on the brand and not everyone has access to the same thing. Also, I get dizzy when I stand over parts soaked in lighter fluid. I use acetone to rinse it off but it's still a PITA.

I try to find all my solvents at Walmart or Home Depot because I am cheap. But it's confusing as hell to figure out what these products actually are. They are named by convention and not chemistry, so names like "paint thinner" could mean different things to the manufacturer.

For example, Klean Strip sells "Paint Thinner" and "Odorless Mineral Spirits." According to them, odorless mineral spirits is a purer version of paint thinner. But since you can use odorless mineral spirits as a paint thinner, it's confusing as to what "Paint Thinner" is...

Also, there are different types of solvents. Acetone is different from petroleum distillates. Since it's basically nontoxic and dries extremely fast, it's probably a good rinse solution.

I am probably going to use a petroleum based solvent and then rinse with acetone. For me, I will probably stick with "Klean Strip" line of products since they are cheap, widely available, and looks like high quality. For petroleum based solvents, there is "VM&P Naphtha", "Odorless Mineral Spirits", "Paint Thinner", "Xylene" and "Toluene." I am already having a hard time remember these names...

The differences between them is the boiling point. They have different properties and cleaning "powers". Not sure which is the best for cleaning watch parts since they all can clean grease.

For what it’s worth, Toluene is as “active” (attacks the same things) as Acetone but slower evaporating. This makes it better for “soaking” as it won’t disappear as fast.
 

No idea if it (or acetone) would attack shellac, but I assume it would. It’s pretty aggressive. So it might be a better early rinse with acetone as a last rinse (if it’s pure enough). We use acetone (and reagent grade isopropyl alcohol) for cleaning aircraft engine parts. Toluene is not on the approved list for titanium as far as I recall. 
 

We get acetone from Sherwin-Williams and it is much cleaner than the Home Depot stuff. 
 

What about good old grain alcohol? It’ll destroy shellac but should be fine everywhere else. Graves brand should be ok? Like 190 proof so only 5% water. 

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Hi All, 

 

I need some help.... I have just purchased a 3 Jar cleaning machine but cant find what type of solutions I should be using 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Can anyone help me with what I should be buying? 

 

It is an old manual type Elma copy with heating chamber. 

 

Thanks,

Tom

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