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New mainspring and Knocking


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4 hours ago, rodabod said:

It’s also the spreading effects which are very, very important

I thought in watch repair spreading was considered to be very very bad? This is why you have products like  Epilames found at the link below? Not that it's normally used by most hobbyists as it's too expensive.

http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames

 

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3 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I thought in watch repair spreading was considered to be very very bad? This is why you have products like  Epilames found at the link below? Not that it's normally used by most hobbyists as it's too expensive.

http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/epilames

 

Yes, that’s exactly correct. It’s important that they do not spread. Mineral oils can be awful for it. 

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15 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

extending service intervals by way of advanced lubrication

I would be really curious to see the press reference that references lubrication? It's my understanding that the watch companies are trying to get away from lubrication using stuff that does not require any lubrication at all. 

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On 8/1/2020 at 4:35 PM, spectre6000 said:

Spreads too much?

Yes. You do not want any spreading. There are many reasons for why it can happen, such as unclean surfaces (especially if there is a minuscule residue film of oil). It effectively causes as similar effect to the oil drying out as it just continues to migrate away from the bearings. Ironically, over-oiling can also cause this effect too if it creates a pathway for the oil to run away to. I've seen that on cap jewels where the oil has spread across the entire chaton and jewel hole, only leaving a thin film everywhere.

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6 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I would be really curious to see the press reference that references lubrication? It's my understanding that the watch companies are trying to get away from lubrication using stuff that does not require any lubrication at all. 

I don't recall exactly where I saw it. Some manufacturer's announcement about a new movement. It was within the last month or so that I saw it. It was one of the larger groups, but I don't recall exactly which one. Sorry I can't be more specific.

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On 7/28/2020 at 8:52 AM, AdamC said:

Finally, if anyone recognises this early 10.5’’’ movement, I’d love to know. I have suspected an FHF but not sure. All train wheel bridges are separate (unlike those designed to look separate).

If you have suspected this to be an FHF 1146 I think you are right.
There is a spring new at Cousinesuk you could try out.

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If you have suspected this to be an FHF 1146 I think you are right.
There is a spring new at Cousinesuk you could try out.

[mention]HSL [/mention] That’s probably the closest match I’ve seen yet. Either the FHF 1144 or 1146. Probably an earlier version of one of them as both plate sides differ slightly from mine. Thanks for pointing this out. Appreciated.


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    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
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