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Hello All - I’m new here.

Fatcapp

By Fatcapp
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Fatcapp New Member

Fatcapp

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Hi all,

I'm new to this forum and in particularly watch repair.

I am only a hobbyist but I have been dabbling with clocks on and off over the last 20 years. However, earlier this year I had a go at a watch which was some learning curve, not to mention the start of the slippery slope to new and different tools!

I’m not an avid poster, but lurk in the background chipping in where I can and asking lots of silly questions!. I can go for some time without being involved as I have several other hobbies as well, so tend to skip from one to the other!

I have had mixed success with my first few watches; I got them all working to a degree but some have hair spring issues which I have had a little look at, but wow, that’s gonna take some practice . I’m also suffering from lowish amplitudes which is probably a mixture of purchasing a Timgrapher straight away and me being a bit of a perfectionis.

So this brings me to why I’m here, the amplitude issue set me on the path of searching for a cleaning machine, which I have finally found a really cheap one that needs a refurbishment . It is a National Electric model 1, which was basically working when I got it, but some of the wires are so perished that it is not safe to use, but I have seen the motor running and varying the speed, and believe it or not, but the heater still works!  Unfortunately the wires going into the motor have disintegrated upon movement so I’m now trying to replace them but struggling . Now I remember reading a very interesting post on here from a gentleman who was restoring the same machine, but I can’t remember who it was, so 8m hoping that he may see this and offer some advice .... please!

Thats enough waffle from me, but at least you know a bit more about me

cheers Fatcapp ( Jon)

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      Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
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    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
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      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
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