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Seiko 7005-8042 1972

steve1811uk

By steve1811uk
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steve1811uk WRT Addict

steve1811uk

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Do you use a timegrapher or equivalent application to tell that?
I use an app on my android phone using the built in mic. Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list. Single line trace shows that the beat error is minimal. Steve34717e1085ebfa30fbeed09fa3ec8d89.jpg

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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1 minute ago, steve1811uk said:

I use an app on my android phone using the built in mic. Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list. Single line trace shows that the beat error is minimal.

You really want more than that. Amplitude and patter regularity are the first and foremost data needed. If you want to start learning now I'd say than a model 1000 today is better than a 1900 tomorrow.

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steve1811uk WRT Addict

steve1811uk

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You really want more than that. Amplitude and patter regularity are the first and foremost data needed. If you want to start learning now I'd say than a model 1000 today is better than a 1900 tomorrow.
I agree, I am definitely missing having an amplitude reading. I can use my eyes for now to get a very rough estimate on that. Note the beat error from the APP is actually daily rate error and the actual beat error can be seen by two parallel lines showing on the trace that merge into one when the beat error is minimised. It will do for me until Christmas [emoji16] Then I can enjoy going through my watch collection again and attend to anything that is a bit off the mark.

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VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

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1 hour ago, steve1811uk said:

Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list

I have one of those and I'm happy with it. Doesn't cost a fortune, about $200+, and it will tell you a bunch of things about the state of a movement. And, even if you're not into repairing, it is very handy when collecting watches. Personally, I consider it a must have. Compare the price to how much you spend on watches! :huh:

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steve1811uk

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Restoration and servicing underway. Watch seems to be in very good condition on the inside with very little wear. Gasket is shot. Dial is in great condition. Signs of Seiko S4 I think (black grease) on the 2nd reduction wheel (causing a nice spirograph pattern on the mainspring) and on the calendar side. Case has come up really nice, I don't like to take off too much metal and try my best to keep the case lines so any deep pits stay. New acrylic sets it off. Rebuilding the movement later this week.537f925e7a2f1652155707702ef3457c.jpgcbafd4ee2362f4f17ed4cc5db53192b4.jpgf5626c190dbd109a67ceadaa193984a9.jpg88e7fda788b59eedde3c4578792d9fa7.jpgdc983d08675ac097f43bcb1ada2b3a21.jpg6f64cee10aacd51f3a640408b1e12294.jpgfef3423b6a4da0f583eeb7dc1108fdbe.jpg5db1ef079a1df09004af3588cc3516b6.jpg

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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4 minutes ago, steve1811uk said:

I don't like to take off too much metal and try my best to keep the case lines so any deep pits stay. 

Use a small (20 or 25mm), new wheel with orange Dialux Keep revolutions at the mininimum and wearing protective glass look where exacly you are working, that is on defect only. You will be able to remove pits and digs leaving edges undisturbed.

Finish with grey again on a felt wheel, and then blue on a mopped one.

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steve1811uk

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Use a small (20 or 25mm), new wheel with orange Dialux Keep revolutions at the mininimum and wearing protective glass look where exacly you are working, that is on defect only. You will be able to remove pits and digs leaving edges undisturbed.
Finish with grey again on a felt wheel, and then blue on a mopped one.
Very interesting, up to now I am hand finishing using abrasive papers (I guess that's in place of the Dialux orange stage). I follow that using a small felt wheel about 2cm diameter on a Dremel type tool on low speed held in a clamp with Dialux grey, followed by Dialux green on a small cotton mop. I believe that green is a slightly finer grade than the blue, probably not a lot in it in terms of performance. Interesting to know if anyone has experience of both.

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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10 minutes ago, steve1811uk said:

Very interesting, up to now I am hand finishing using abrasive papers (I guess that's in place of the Dialux orange stage).

Paper has no role in buffing, which works by displacing metal, even if some people will tell you that it doesn't until they get blue in the face.

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Dialux green on a small cotton mop. I believe that green is a slightly finer grade than the blue, probably not a lot in it in terms of performance. Interesting to know if anyone has experience of both.

Yes your jdm here, green leave strange streaks that takes forever to clean, is doesn't even get close to mirror or new watch finish. Blue does not and gives honest, acceptable results.

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steve1811uk

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Yes your jdm here, green leave strange streaks that takes forever to clean, is doesn't even get close to mirror or new watch finish. Blue does not and gives honest, acceptable results.
Thanks for your input, I will give orange and blue a try going forwards and see how that goes.

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