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help procuring part for Patek


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i recently broke my patek 5134 by winding a little too vigorously.  heard a click sound and can no longer wind the watch.

it has a 215 PS movement

after dissasembly, i see that the "under" wheel that the crown wheel is attached to (located under the barrel bridge) has a couple of broken teeth.

the wheel has 3 screw holes and a nub in the middle for the crown wheel to attach to.

from my searches on the internet, it appears this part is #421, but i am not sure, wondering if anyone can confirm correct part number

or has any ideas where to procure part.  i will attach a picture showing the part, its the silver part under the highlighted bushing with 3 holes in it.

patek 215 under crown wheel.jpg

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5 hours ago, stony8868 said:

any ideas where to procure part

I have no idea, but you'll hardly find any scrap movements to scavenge for parts on eBay, and Patek probably won't even bother to reply to any questions from a non certified watch repairer. I wouldn't be surprised if your only option will be to send it to Patek and pay for the repair through your nose. Sorry, for being so pessimistic. Anyway, best of luck!

EDIT: You could try to ask cousinsuk.com to source it for you. Searched for cal. 5134 but unfortunately no match...

Edited by VWatchie
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5 hours ago, stony8868 said:

the "under" wheel that the crown wheel is attached to (located under the barrel bridge) has a couple of broken teeth.

The 215 is a quite common movement for a Patek Philippe, but as with all expensive watches the replacements are expensive too since they aren't mass produced. 

Here you got one at the bay selling the wheel you ask about, the rest of the parts are out there too.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Patek-Philippe-Geneva-Cal-215-part-1x-under-crown-wheel-420-diameter-3-4-mm/133217216347?hash=item1f045d675b:g:ywkAAOSw4bhcJQ0P

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26 minutes ago, HSL said:

Here you got one at the bay selling the wheel you ask about, the rest of the parts are out there too.

For the price asked seems like learning how to make (CNC or not) this kind of parts may be a killer business. 

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1 hour ago, HSL said:

The 215 is a quite common movement for a Patek Philippe

Oops, didn't read carefully enough. Thought 5134 was the calibre number. ^_^

Here's a complete list of what CousinsUK have to offer for Patek cal.215 :lol::

image.thumb.png.b9f0060987d35be1a57c088fe916fef2.png

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sorry meant to say the ebay part doesn't quite match my part.  mine has a round nub in the center like the picture shows, not a square.

though i am now wondering if the square part can be rounded off.....

guess i'm still better off trying to get the right part if i can.

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14 minutes ago, stony8868 said:

but thats for the crown wheel on top of bridge.  i need the part that is under the bridge that the crown wheel screws into. 

I thought the crown wheel 420 is on the top like this one..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PATEK-PHILIPPE-CAL-215-CROWN-WHEEL-NEW-WATCH-MOVEMENT-PART-420-/123903845490

The other part is as the dude states the wheel going under the crown wheel..
Maybe take a shot of how yours look like would help a bit..

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4 hours ago, stony8868 said:

here is a better picture of the part, its labeled 4 in the side window

Looks like a interesting video, do you have the link to it saved?
Have you looked if the part nr 4 isn't actually 2 pieces?
The lower which is in contact with the winding pinion might have a upper removable part called a crown wheel core.
I think it used to be called no 423 in other Patek movements. The core usually fitts on the upside the lower crown wheel. It has a bronze bushing fitted to it when the bridge goes into place.


Pateke1.jpg.7fa9919f38678e033f92834f6ac92319.jpg

If you look closely at the lower picture you can see it most likely is a two piece part.
Push in the middle of the wheel with some appropiate tool to see if it doesn't split appart.

Pateke1b.jpg.6e034fa147cfd5af9ff414334a7006bd.jpg
 

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    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 The first four attempts show (0 to 34 sec.) the chrono seconds hand jumping forwards, the next two attempts (35 to 47 sec.) seem "normal", then on the seventh attempt (48 to 54 sec.) the seconds hand jumps to 5 sec. and the minute counter jumps to 1. The rest of the video just shows repeats of these three variants. I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
    • Well said Ross. My reason for the thread, i like many of us dont want to lose the forum, such a well knitted group of individuals i feel. But things can happen out of anyone's control. Would be nice to have something in place just in case, if anyone has any ideas please speak up. 
    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
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