Jump to content

Hairspring turning tool


gary17

Recommended Posts

Hi

I need to get a Hairspring turning tool. They seem to come in sizes. 

One end of the tool refits the Hairspring and they give you a size for the shaft size for this end. 

The other end let's you turn the spring collet and there seems to be no size for this end. 

What I need to know is which size should I get to get the most use from. 

Any help appreciated there not cheap to buy. 

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not quite sure what tool you are talking about, but if you are working on hairsprings and you haven't already got yourself one find yourself a good condition second hand staking tool as you can use this to refit hairsprings.

20190331_182012.thumb.jpg.17576cbbe9007b9f37ccf6db07a81192.jpg

Then to adjust the hairspring hang it on a balance tack

1750591577_balancetack.thumb.png.77be10970f7d29560bfe7af5acd1097f.png

And finally make this tool for adjusting the hairspring.

2074068442_hairspringtool.png.261058b69d595392975e7d9b481d390a.png

Mine was made from blue steel approx 2.5mm in diameter.

I went a bit crazy with the grinding on mine, you really just need to grind / file about the last 15mm from the end take it off from both sides so its is about 0.3mm thick (this can be bigger or smaller depending on the hairspring collet size) and then file the end as shown in the photo so it looks a bit like a tiny hockey stick.

The idea is you have worked out already if you want to rotate the hairspring to the left or the right and then you hang it on the balance tack and hold the balance wheel. As the tool is only 0.3mm thick turning it on its side you can slide it between the hairspring coils and then turn it 90 degrees so the end of the 'hockey stick' is facing towards the slot in the collet and you push it in the slot which loosens the collet and you can rotate the hairspring and then the remove the tool.

It may help to put a little wedge into the very end of the tool so it goes into the slot on the collet easier.

I hope that all makes sense.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think only Bergeon has them, and they give no indication what the actual sizes are. In the pic, the foreground is two commercial one (old, I believe Bergeon but unmarked), you can see what the two ends look like. The other two are shop made and double ended just for turning; I needed an extra small one and a larger one with an extra fine "finger".

 

I don't know what they cost but I'd say just buy the 5 that Bergeon sells, if you just get one or two you'll always need one you don't have.

 

Hairspring push turn.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My mentor taught me to use an old oiler for this. Just use 1 big enough for the job. Wedge it in, give it a slight twist axially to open up the collet ever so slightly and turn collet to desired position.

It works. But I find that oilers tend to be a bit to flexible and getting the collet to zero beat error position a little difficult. Instead, I use a ground down sewing needle. I read it in a book by Henry Fried. Let me search for it and I'll post it later.

20200701_090225.jpg

20200701_093232.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...