Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I need some help with repairing my Emporio Armani ar-1922.
I've watched some videos on YouTube but none of them resemble the movement of this particular watch.
My first problem is removing the stem/crown. I cannot see anything which looks like it will release the stem and I don't want to poke around inside it any more for fear of creating any damage.
Any help will be much appreciated.
New Member 0 1 post Report post Posted 3 minutes ago Hi everyone,
I'm Derek and moved to France about 10 years ago: I am old and technologically challenged and my punctuation will appear slightly odd as the fullstop on my computer has fully stopped!
I have a Junghans Mega Solar and need to change part of the ceramic watch band which is , of course, on a silicone core! I have bought the part of the silicone core that I need on the internet, the old one had broken where the springpin attaches it to the body of the watch!
I now have the length of ceramic watch band still on the silicone core, separated from th clasp and, of course , not attached to the watch body:
I have bought a tube of silicone grease which I understand is vital when it comes to sliding the new core into the ceramic sleeve but how do I get the ceramic sleeve off the broken core without wrecking anything please?
Any hints, advice and/or sympathy will be extremely welcome in this money saving attempt!
Thanks In Advance for any help you can give
Hello and good afternoon to all.
OK, here is another little horological teaser for you to get your heads around.
I have this great OASIS lady's (?) B270 watch that I got in a set to be repaired. It actually only needed a battery and works great.
However, the strap DEFINITELY needs replacing!
AND here is my problem.
I just CANNOT figure out HOW to get the spring bar out.
Actually, I am not sure it IS a spring bar. I have tried hard with all manner of tools (spring bar removers, screwdrivers, sharp knives etc.) to get the spring to release, but no joy.
I took the strap off by hand, so you can see the photos to see what I have. I really HOPE it IS a spring bar, but if so, HOW to get it out??
And if it is NOT, then HOW to fit a new strap on other than by glue?
Also, as an aside to all this, does ANYONE know how to set the date on this watch?
But first things first eh! As far as I can tell, there are NOT two positions that you can pull out the crown to. But I could well be wrong.
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Hi @jwa - the hole sizes and hand lengths are really the two main factors you have to consider. The 2834-2 has 1.50, 0.90 and 0.25 holes for the hands ... and that will be standard across ETA movement IDs you're likely to come across for hands e.g. models 2824, 2834, 2783, 2893 etc. Your 2834-2 is a 13''' sized movement (29mm diameter) whereas most movements are 11.5''' (25.6mm). Your watch however isn't any larger than 'normal' but still just worth checking the length of hands in case the ones you're looking at were designed for a smaller overall dial/watch and would look odd. Apart from that pretty straightforward. Word or warning though: be super duper extra careful when removing hands if you've never done it before. Some form of dial protection is a must otherwise one slip and a scratch you'll never stop seeing.
i cant make out the name but it could be german. if it was swiss i could imagine the dial will say incabloc on it since by the case and dial style puts this watch somewhere in the 1940s- early 50s....a picture of the movement will a big help in the identification of this watch