Jump to content

Benrus

Jeff117
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jeff117 New Member

Jeff117

Posted
Posted

I have gotten bit by the collecting of watches bug. I am fascinated by all the watch repair videos and find most to be very relaxing. As my collecting proceeds I was passed down a watch from my late father. Nearest I can tell its a cheaper model Benrus quartz watch. There are no identifying marks on the back and apparently it opens from the crystal side of the case. Can anyone offer any information. I'd like to know the model or time of manufacture. I'm probably not going to get it working. This is for sentimental purposes. Thank you.

20200621_111423.jpg

20200621_111351.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

Just try a fresh battery, chances are that it will work. If it doesn't start try some quick spinning on it axis, and pulling the stem out and in. If no luck I think the back is removable to identify and replace the module. A new strap and it will be a nice watch to wear.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

Posted
Posted

The battery access hatch looks to me to be of the type that was used on electronic watches of the early seventies, perhaps late sixties. If I'm right, and it does say "Electronic" at the bottom of the dial, it probably has a movement in the ESA 9150 line. 9150, 9154, ...They are interesting in that they are battery powered but keep time via a balance wheel rather than a quartz impulse. They are often fixable, but are a bit finicky. And my experience with an ESA 9150 that I actually got running is that it run fast. This MAY be due to the battery it was designed with was in the 1.35V range, which are not longer available. At least I couldn't find one. It may also be due to something being amiss with its hairspring. (?)

Look up "ESA 9150" and/or "ESA 9154", and you'll see what they look like, and perhaps what to expect. Good luck.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MrRoundel Super WRT Addict

MrRoundel

Posted
Posted

This is a Benrus Electronic that is an  ESA 9154 movement. My feeling is that this is what you'll find when you are able to open it up. There are magnets on the balance that sometimes attract and capture any screw that dares come loose in their vicinity. The one I got running had two screws stuck to the magnets at the balance, IIRC.

 

DSC06667.JPG

DSC06668.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • joelcarvajal
      Gamblin Gamsol for cleaning?

      By joelcarvajal · Posted

      Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...