Jump to content

Advice on selecting PA type waterproof replacement crystals


Recommended Posts

Hello again. I've recently had to replace PA type crystals for the first few times and have found it confusing, which is not surprising in itself, as I often find getting out of bed confusing. In the past, I've measured the outer diameter of a PA crystal, made a best effort to match it to one in the GS catalog and ordered a replacement, only to consistently receive a crystal that is too small (both times with Wyler watches). Am I missing something? For example, I have a 1961 Bulova Sea King that I like very much, but that needs a new crystal. The outer diameter is 28.3mm. In the GS catalog, they offer a 28.3mm crystal for a Bulova, crystal PA 437. Could anyone please tell me if there is a factor I'm not considering when selecting PA type replacement crystals? Thank you!

IMG_20200615_125836.thumb.jpg.d581619084907030bcf6cd56c06268df.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  The general convention was to add 0.01 to the measure ment.  I suggest you have a look at the Esslinger web site  and watch their tutorial  for fitting crystals, It contains a lot of useful information, better than I could explain.                              

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks like it might be the type of case that the forties and fifties Perregaux Sea Hawks used, as well as a few others. If so, they can be a bear to find crystals for.

I have had success using a GS crystal for a Wyler on a tough-fit Perregaux. And I am still searching for the right one for a GP Amphibian. I've tried two or three "almosts", but it's still waiting for the right one to come along, so to speak.

The problem with this type of case is that the crystal must not only snug firmly against the case back. It must also allow the bezel to cinch the outside of the crystal and hold the bezel to the back through that fit. In other words, it has two critical measurements. Unless the GS, or other, brand crystal specifies the watch model, it's tough. Again though, I'm speculating that this is the waterproof type of case that GP, Wyler, Benrus, and a few others used. If not...never mind. Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/15/2020 at 7:37 PM, watchweasol said:

Hi  The general convention was to add 0.01 to the measure ment.  I suggest you have a look at the Esslinger web site  and watch their tutorial  for fitting crystals, It contains a lot of useful information, better than I could explain.                              

I presume you mean centimetres! It’s usually 0.1 or 0.2mm larger diameter. 
 

MFO - in short, measuring crystals is worthwhile but not reliable as some older types shrink, and they compress under the caliper jaws. 
 

What WW describes is the best way to do it as far as I’m aware - measure the rebate and then select the next size up to provide an interference fit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mr. Roundel, you have the exact idea. The crystal must fit over the bezel, rather than inside it. I'm fairly comfortable selecting the correct size high dome acrylic, but these PA waterproof type crystals are another matter entirely. To clarify, this type of crystal can be pressed on by hand and doesn't require a crystal lift. It's not a PHD or Stella High Dome type. 

For example, I have a Wyler with a bumper automatic movement. I can't find the model name, so I went by the original crystal size: 27.2mm outer diameter. The GS catalog had one for a Wyler "1073" that was 27.2mm, model PA385-25, so I ordered one (at a cost of around $15.00). When it arrived, it measured 27.0mm actual outer diameter, thus too small. So, I moved on to the next Wyler crystal that was nearest in size, a 27.55mm for a Wyler "1085", model PA403-20. This crystal actually fit over the bezel, BUT the outer ring will not fit over the outside of the new crystal! I'd also ordered yet another crystal for a different Wyler (it too was the wrong size, of course), so by then I was out nearly $50.00 with only one (barely) fitted crystal. That's when I thought it best to ask here before I have more crystals than Waterford. 

The Wyler in question:

resize01.thumb.jpg.acc95b3d484d8b69a7172a542e70d6bd.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Well, like MyFavoriteObsession, I am now about $50 into crystals that didn't fit. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be likely that I'd find a GS crystal that specifies the GP case that it is for. Yes, I occasionally see them so labeled, but not for the watches I have.

Oh, and on the GP case, it is the bezel, incorporated with the lugs, that must fit over the crystal. So while there are similarities in design between the GP and Wyler waterproof cases of the period, there are also important differences. I just tried a GS PA 360 25.9mm that was marked for a "Harvel" watch. It fits PERFECTLY over the case back. Unfortunately, it seems to be ever-so-slightly too thin to hold let the bezel hold well to the lower assembly (Case back and crystal.). I think I am going to end up shimming it somehow, or even placing a few spots of glue somewhere at the join between the crystal and bezel.

One little additional tidbit, the PA 360 that is designated for the Harvel has two different envelope markings that are .1mm apart. Some are marked 25.9mm, which is the one I have now, and some are marked 26.0mm. I don't know what GS's thinking is on this. Actual different sizes? Or was it a correction of an earlier erroneous measurement? Or perhaps newer PA 360's are made larger so they will work as they need to on my Amphibian? Tough to say unless I now go into the $60 into crystal place.

I really like this watch so it's frustrating the heck out of me. Fortunately I have enough heck in me to hold out a while longer. Cheers all.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
×
×
  • Create New...