Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Would anyone have a ELMA Leak Controller that they would be interested in selling. 

I had one a couple of years ago, I was persuaded to to sell it, but wish I hadn't. 

 

 

1592076331634.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi. Are they any good? I believe the results can be a bit sketchy. The needle doesn’t move for a negative test but move a tiny amount for a positive result. I’ve only heard this second hand though!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • There is absolutely no reason to install the balance without the pallet fork being fitted first unless you did some work on the balance (staff replacement, hairspring adjustment, pivot straightening / polishing, jewel replacement, etc). A few questions for you: - you did not by any chance lubricate Pallet Fork Pivots / Jewels? If you did, remove the Pallet Fork, clean it, remove any remaining oil from Top and Bottom Jewels, reinstall the Pallet Fork. That should resolve your "stopping" issue. - also, do not forget to very-very-very lightly oil contact surfaces of both Pallets with light oil. Not even a drop - just a touch with red oil pin. Good luck
    • Ok I didn't make a 3D model or anything, but laid out the most important part, the plate. The back piece is 40mm x40mm, the arm can be anything hinged any way just so that it comes down over the balance rim. The support piece for the inside of the rim can also be anything, on the old tools they were V shaped and pressed into a hole, on my friends it's a simple pin that has a notch filed in it. The notch/V permits whatever bit of screw that is sticking out inside the rim to be unharmed when working on it. The threaded holes for the pins are a 2mm thread, but anything near that would be fine.    You can see in the pics that there were different ways to hinge the arm, either with a hole drilled all the way through the 40mm back plate and the arm recessed in, or with pressed in hinges, both would have been a test of the student's patience, not becuase they are necessary. A simple hinge from a hobby store for dollhouse work or whatever is fine.   I don't know what the pin sticking out the front of the tool is for. They all have it, but?    
    • Hello all, Very, very new to this watch repair lark but reading and Youtubing my way along. No doubt you will see some exceedingly stupid questions coming along from me shortly. Thanks.
    • Welcome back my friend.
×
×
  • Create New...