I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well.
Thanks in advice for any advice.0
I have acquired what I believe to be a WW II era wristwatch.
It was "made" (offered?) by Mulco. The movement is an FHF 150 (with sweep wheel/center seconds). The case is from "ID" (which is why I believe it to be WW II era).
Here is the face - still cased...
Here is the inside of the case back...
The dial side uncased...
And the back (uncased)...
I am not familiar with this movement at all. It's the first time I have seen an FHF. It's also the first time that I have seen (in person) a movement with a sweep wheel.
I have ordered the Bergeon/Presto puller for odd number spokes. I assume there is isn't anything too strange with these old center-second movements other than the sweep wheel (removal and replacement).
But would appreciate any info, cautions, warnings etc. that I might need if attempting to service myself. It's not a family heirloom or anything, but I don't want to kill a vintage movement.
Also curious about watch itself if anyone knows anything about the original Mulco company and it's watches.
A vintage Elgin 15/0, Gr 559. I took it down, cleaned and lubricated it and it is gaining 15 minutes/24 hours. I have looked at the HS, it appears to be perfect, clean, flat, not magnetized (de-magged the movement X 3 already), and in position between the regulator pins. Not hung on the center wheel. Correct mainspring, and balance is not knocking. I do not remember amplitude, but IIRC, it was above 22 which is O.K. by me with the movement. Please give me some ideas as to how to correct this. It doesn't seem like there are enough timing washers in the world to slow this down!
Anyone know a supplier that would have orient watch parts. In general orient doesn’t supply parts I guess and it’s been hard to find on eBay. I have an EM60 repair. The crystal was damaged and whatever damaged it burned through and burnt the inner bezel and I cannot find a bezel with the same markings. Any help would be awesome.
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If the broach starts to bind in the hole a little oil will help. For your first attempt you have done well. I’m not too sure of the bush you have chosen the hole has very little depth to the pivot and plate. This is why I always made my own. Here are two sorts of bushes that I recommend. Bergeon and KWM I wouldn’t use them. Bergeon clock brooches cutting and smoothing are one of the best, I don’t think they cover the sizes you would need for Longcase (grandfather) clocks I might be wrong. There is another type of bushing when you have experience, that is called invisible, that is when you can’t see that the clock has been bushed. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mantel-clock-general https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/english-clock-bushes
Thank you @JohnD. This seems like a sensible 50th birthday present if not an extravagant one considering his demographic and the era. That's not to say he didn't rise above that demographic. It would be cool if our watches came with detailed provenance, sadly we're left with guesses and dreams.
Finally... Bush fitted - hole broached to the needed size, and the video below was the test fit to see if it all worked and looked OK. The wheels spins smoothly though all angles (it was not lubricated at this point) and the bearing endplay looks fine too. Not shown in the sequence but done anyway, was my attempt at polishing the pivot from the worn side. It was marked and oldhippy said it really should be done. I did not have any correct tools for this, but did have some hard pith wood and very fine rouge, so had a go with that, using a small hand-drill to spin the wheel. Before and after through the loupe did show a marked improvement, so was worth doing. (Naturally, I polished the pivot before broaching the pivot hole...) All I need to do now is to rebuild the works and sort out the escapement depthing and, hopefully, this old clock will keep time again. I would welcome comments, views on the process etc. as this was a learning task for me. I also have to say thanks to all who commented and gave tips earlier, as you certainly gave me the confidence to "have a go". Re-Bushed.mp4