Hi fellow watch enthusiasts, I hope you are keeping safe & well.
Having tinkered for a while, and completed the second of Mark's on-line course, I'm taking the plunge and undertaking a full dismantle, clean and reassemble of an old 1960's Tissot Seastar. As a result I have two questions, if I may.
I read somewhere, that I should not subject the pallet fork to the harsh cleaning fluids, as it may damage the delicate End Stones. Is this accurate and correct and are there any other components that I should not put in the harsh cleaning fluid..?
In addition, I've managed to secure a NOS replacement main spring. I'm assuming that as its been sitting around for a good while it will need lubricating. It there a method of lubricating the main spring without the need to unfurl it from the temporary housing it comes in, or once inserted into the barrel..?
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
I will be working on restoring Perrelet James Cook Antarctica.
For those who may not know the brand, Perrelet takes its name from Abraham Louis Perrelet, the inventor of automatic watch movements back in late 1700. The brand, however, did not survive through the turbulent times, and was only re-activated in the 1990s. And that's when Perrelet James Cook Antarctica was born.
I would say that the Perrelet timepieces from the late 1990s and early 2000s seem to be the most beautiful to me. I think the case design and the dial are timeless, hence my personal affinity to the brand.
I already own a two-tone Perrelet Tempest and spotted this Perrelet Antarctica on eBay with some visible damage to the dial and hands. I pulled the trigger and here I am trying to restore it. Also, the bet with the size of the bracelet did not pay off, and I am currently trying to source spare links from Perrelet - what a pain. I already contacted the authorised distributors in the US, the UK and Germany, but apparently everyone in Switzerland is on holiday now!
As you can see, the dial appears to be water damaged, but the markers are fine. Additionally, the front rotor (the trademark of Perrelet watches) appears to be discoloured in places, which after some inspection seems to be due to stripping of the nickel (or possibly gold) plating on steel rotor. I will be nickel plating soon (using brush technique) and will share pictures soon.
I have managed to remove the markers and strip the dial from its colour. I am however unsure whether the original colour was achieved by chemical treatment or painting - the colour seemed to be completely resistant to varnish. It could only be removed by gentle polishing. There is still some left over in the ridges.
I am unsure how to proceed from here. I would like to get back the beautiful blue finish on the dial. I already purchased an airbrush, but I have difficulty in choosing the right paint for the job - I would like to preserve the sharp look of the ridges without putting too many thick coats. I would greatly welcome any advice on what paint would be the best for the job, and how to prep the dial (assume roughing slightly with 1500 sandpaper would do fine?)
Alternatively, is it possible to achieve such deep, aquamarine blue colour by electroplating? That would seem like an ideal solution?
Hopefully, all the sweat will pay off. I will keep updating the thread with progress as I go. Happy to answer any questions on my work so far.
Recently I have become obsessed with ana digi watches from the 1980's! I really dig the style for some reason.
I was looking on ebay in the low price ranges and I found this little nugget for the princely sum of $5.70 - the shipping from Peru was an inflated $20 AUD - so I got away with it for under $30.
It came well packed in a little padded envelope. It was missing the back, had severe damage, but I didn't see any rust stains on the back.
A view from the side
It is a Seiko H127A-5000 - the year could be between 1979 and 1980 - there is a little bit of info around the internet.
The case back will be an insanely rare part to find so I may have to CNC mill something or potentially 3d print a plastic back.
That is if I can get it working.
The Crystal is trash. I've tried sanding it, will wait till I have some crystal polish - I haven't had much luck polishing mineral crystals.
A new crystal is around $35 - with OEM Seiko writing.
I removed the movement and soaked it in WD40 to loosen all the bolts. It was too seized to attempt opening.
The LCD panel/dial has a crack in it. The sub assembly appears clean, the zebra strips on the LCD were a bit gummed up but cleaned up.
Happily the analogue movement was turning over freely, it wasn't ticking - but likely due to so much grit and much on the contacts.
The only corrosion was on the rotor, and some of the non important chrome plated parts.
I've soaked them in shellite. Cleaned with blutac and then inspected under microscope.
Everything appears fine.
It is a very high end movement with 8 jewels and all metal parts - it would have been top of the line back in the day. Very tiny parts.
The main circuit board is out - my it looks complicated.
Simple plain jane movement - nothing fancy: It's all inside:
The bridge is off and the rotor is next to the movement:
Cleaning the case:
Tonight I have finished cleaning everything - I have put it into my movement parts tray - awaiting some time after work tommorow.
If anyone knows how the LCD works please let me know - is the display in the top dial section? Or the next layer down? There is a white mirror presumably to reflect the light off the screen as this is the black model version (there were two models).
Parts look pricey and rare - I've found a dial panel NOS - also crystals online. May have to look for circuit board if its fried -
Can't find any bracelets - may have to go non OEM generic steel band.
Goal is to get it running - if its not running - atleast to be a show piece in my cabinet.
I got kinda jealous when I read a bunch of posts about people using Photoshop or InDesign to mock up dials and print them on decals etc... I mean, I know the real way to refinish a dial is to send it to the professionals, but I've been wanting to try to make some of the cheap and cheerful Bulovas I do be a bit more presentable before I wear them... Been wanting to try some diy approaches, but I always get stopped by the first task: removing the dial markers / indices.
The few posts I've read about diy dial restoration speak about using a pin or tweezers to push the dial markers out from the back... but the vintage Bulova dials I see have totally smooth brass backs with no sign of marker feet or anything... so how do the dial refinishers remove them? Are they riveted on somehow? are they held on by varnish or something??? Anybody know?
Here's a pic of the kind of thing I'm talking about - hopefully someone out there knows how the dial people remove these little markers (and replace them)... inquiring minds want to know
No registered users viewing this page.
Thanks John. Yes I've come across those charts and have them and I'm actually eyeballing that very set. Another slipped by me last week by a just a few minutes. I've never seen a Waltham set but did see 2-3 taps once in a estate lot that the seller thought they were miniature pin punches. They were in very rough shape. Otherwise haven't seen anything else about american thread pitch or taps and dies for that matter...still lookin.
How come? I'm kinda all over the board. Pocket watches, wrist watches, both large and small, non-working scrap missing and broken parts. I only own one vintage that was my grandfather's and I had that professionally serviced. I had no direction and just dove in. Figured out practicing on larger was easier to learn on. Just what worked for me. I don't see myself falling off the planet over these, though? I'm not a pro or a repairman. Just a hobbyist.
I have one of those and I'm happy with it. Doesn't cost a fortune, about $200+, and it will tell you a bunch of things about the state of a movement. And, even if you're not into repairing, it is very handy when collecting watches. Personally, I consider it a must have. Compare the price to how much you spend on watches!
Might just need to remove those worn links as bracelet is way oversized anyway. Would be good to know if it was fixable though for future reference. Plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to size these bracelets. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk