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Scooby Doo Working Again After 25 Years, Zoinks!


Ray

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I still have my very first watch, a Scooby Doo watch about 30 years old and it hasn't worked for the last 25 or so it's just been living in various drawers for a long time. I finally plucked up the courage to try and get it going again after my recent successes, after all I couldn't make it any worse anyway!

 

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Obviously it's a very basic movement in there, no jewels and the dial has bend tabs on it so I'm pretty sure it was never intended to be serviced.

 

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There are no bridges, just one plate holding everything in place, it was pretty tricky to line everything back up.

 

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The ratchet wheel was held on by a copper coloured clip and there's a very odd keyless works in there, everything was a bit alien to me!

 

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A good clean and he runs again!

 

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Finished, very happy. As soon as it started ticking it brought back memories. I remember looking at it in bed with the torch light on a Christmas morning waiting until 5.00am because that's the earliest my brother and I could get up to open our presents! 

 

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Nice it don,t have to be a Rolex to give pleasure & happiness.

 

Recently got a cheap quartz watch going for my nephew. It was a football watch, the seconds hand was a clear plastic disc with a football printed on it. He was well pleased with uncle Del

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Ray that was awesome mate!!  Love the great pics and story too.

Looks like one of the trickiest movements to service I've seen in a while. You must have nerves of steel.

 

Damn you Scrappy-doo for ruining Scooby-doo!

 

Dan B

 

I second that Dan!  Scrappy ruined everything!!!

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Ray that was awesome mate!!  Love the great pics and story too.

Looks like one of the trickiest movements to service I've seen in a while. You must have nerves of steel.

 

Thanks, I found it was helpful to hold my breath whilst trying to locate everything, think I was seconds away from turning blue!

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My first watch was a Bradley with 5, 10, 15, etc. marked just outside the dial numbers, as it was designed to be instructive to those learning how to tell time. That would have been in the early 1960s, when I was a mere kiddo. I have no idea where that watch went, but I DO have a Seiko that I bought years later while in high school. I wore it through my university years, so it's very sentimental, although now dead... I was majoring in art at the time, and once produced a composition of photorealistic pencil drawings of some of the Seiko's details. I was that fond of it. Anyway, one of the reasons I've taken an interest in watch repair is to get my old Seiko going again; so seeing you get Scooby back on his feet is a big encouragement. Thanks! By the way, you're right about Scrappy. Eurgh...

Gryf

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
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