Jump to content

Weird phenomenon


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I finally managed to fix my fathers watch which is the reason why I started learning watch service and tinkinring, the thing is the watch runs perfectly and keeps good time as long as I'm wearing it but it's losing like 2 hours during the night when it's not on my hand.

I've tried leaving it both dial up and down but it made no difference, I checked the timing with the Tickoprint app and it's -15 s/d if I remember correctly.

The movement is 46941 if that makes any difference.

Thank you and have a nice day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ammar said:

Tickoprint app

Does your app measure amplitude?

Then what was your definition of fixing the watch in other words what have you done to it?

One of the reasons automatic watches can have issues is if they just run out of power. It's why asked if your timing app has amplitude measurement. So in other words when the watches on the wrist it manages to keep enough power to be running as soon as you take it off your wrist did just runs out of power. Then next day's your watch still running or is it just off by a couple hours?

Another Guess since basically were guessing without enough diagnostics information. I see from the picture at the link below it appears to have a calendar mechanism? There is possible you're losing your time during the calendar change but as I said it's just a guess.

 

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Orient_46941

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Further to John's remarks,

-I would advance the hands by 12hrs, if the fault is in the calender mech then it should loose time during the day.

-Note how long it runs on bench following a full day on wrist.

This points to the area the fault is at.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And further to Nucejoe's remark

It could be the Cannon Pinion being loose. It slips at calendar change time.

When changing the time is the crown really easy to move the hands? Often a sign of a loose CP.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, thank you for the informative replies, first of all I don't think it's because of the date mechanism because it's keeping good time after the date changes no problem, I believe the problem is with the main spring I didn't clean it properly because I didn't want to damage it, I have practiced on like 20 spare main springs that I've got in a parts lot and I have serviced four or five Seiko main springs with no problems but with this orient watch I already had a spare one so I decided to practice on it I opened it cleaned it but it wouldn't go back in the barrel as I have practiced before and eventually the bridle broke on me so I didn't want risk it.

as for the balance jewels I did take them off and clean them and oil them which I feel like I'm  getting relevantly good at since I'm not causing the springs flying to the horizon and I think the amount of oil that I used is not too much, I'm using Mobius 8000 at the moment I know it's not supposed to be used on every part of the watch but it's what I have now and I don't want to invest in expensive oils yet (also the unemployment thing isn't helping).

I don't think there is a problem with the cannon pinion because the hands feel secure and I don't feel any slippage (is this even a word) or looseness 

the watch isn't expensive or rare by any means it just holds sentimental value for me it's my father's watch  he bought in 1982 I think and I used to play with all the time when I was a kid, the click, the escape wheel pivot and some barrel teeth were broken so I had to find a donor movement which proved difficult for some reason I guess these watches aren't that popular here.

To day I woke up to see that it kept the time and didn't lose even a minute which is a pleasant surprise, I'm not sure what happened I didn't do any thing to it  I hope it just stays this way.

I hope I answered all of your questions and thank you very very much for being helpful, have a nice day

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...