Jump to content

Removing the centre arbor


Joseph111

Recommended Posts

Hello again.
This clock seems to be more trouble than it's worth (probably why I am trying to fix it).

I have been stripping down and cleaning an FHF 15cm and have finally been able to remove the chiming mechanism to clean the wheels and the front plate. However, I am still unable to remove the centre wheel and it's arbor because of the chiming mechanism's trigger. Has anyone got any idea how to either remove the trigger or the small brass piece that holds the arbor in? I have tried gently heating it and tapping it but that hasn't moved it.

20200520_143454.thumb.jpg.01bfd85a707c4ad58bf45dee59645df5.jpg
20200520_143419.thumb.jpg.da4e3ff4aef52ba22d16e09a43da16f6.jpg
20200520_143440.thumb.jpg.4ebbe786dcb0a9cf530ce919016aaf39.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can support the backside (think bench vice almost closed) and tap it out with a brass hammer. Without support you will probably not succeed in getting it out but you may well succeed in damaging the plate or bending the arbor. I usually use levers, and then if it's still stuck after getting it as far off the plate as levers will go, using a screw type puller.

puller.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As stated by Old Hippy why remove it =, If the hole is not worn and dosn't require bushing they are best left alone,    as continued levering an pulling without the correct tools ( Nicklesilver)      damage the cam/gear or bend the center wheel shaft, not to mention getting it back on if you mange to remove it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fair enough. I will leave it there and clean the movement as it is.

I actually dismantled it to fix a problem with the chimes and now I have realised what went wrong, I am planning to take the opportunity to re-bush several worn holes. It was run until it completely stopped (about 30 years ago) and it is only over the last few months I have taken the time to have a proper look at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes i agree with oldhippy or anyone else.  The arbor is set at the factory.  Personally, I hate that i cannot clean out the pivot but to re-mount the four pronged pinion such that it matches the time shaft arbor tip where the minute hand is attached is literally a pain in the ass.  Leave it alone.  Unless its stopping the clock due to a sloppy pivot hole, i never attempt to remove them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I voted leave too, my reasoning was the the EU is undemocratic, no elected officials. I don't regret it but I  am sad that both sides acted like petulant toddlers.  Shameful.  I'm not on other forums but if I was and left this site, would you shun me? Of course not, we aren't petulant toddlers.  
    • This is a type of tool that may be suitable to remove the bezel - though note that I'm pretty sure the watch should be face down - not face up, as in some of the photos of these tools on amazon & ebay! If you try one one of those, put the movement screws back in first to avoid accidents. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Professional-Remover-Watchmaker-Diameter/dp/B09XCH4QVN?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A296NCMMFVXSDN&th=1  
    • Hi, I’m constantly asking my wife to help me with removing the stem in order to complete casing. To expand, this is not a challenge for me when the setting lever is secured by a screw (older calibers). However when the setting lever is attached to a spring loaded setting lever axel, like on more modern calibers, I simply don’t see how to apply enough pressure on the button to get the stem out short of putting the movement face down with the dial and hands attached, which I’m loath to do in order to avoid damaging the dial/hands? what technique should I be using? thanks  
    • Many thanks for your advice (being borne in mind at present) & offer Dell. When I was given the clock the plastic anchor was loose on the arbour (it had split at the 'hole') &, after repairing this, I have been trying to determine whether the spindle (pin) should be perpendicular when the pallet is sitting on a flat surface; or whether, when installed, its L-R extremes (or alternatively its tick & tock points) should lie at equal angles from the vertical when moved with spring absent. I can get the clock to run but in every such configuration the top block has to be turned anti-clockwise (from above) by quite a bit in order to be 'in beat' & it always runs fast (despite the pendulum being set to as slow as possible). This makes me wonder if there is any particular feature of/fault in a torsion spring clock which determines which turn direction (if any) is necessary to get it 'in beat'; & whether there would be a different set of settings that would get it running nearer to time at somewhere around the mid timing/inertia position which would then allow tweaking of the fast/slow setting.
    • Now this has happened I bet China or India just to name two will start to produce none genuine parts.  I did. But idiot Boris Johnson failed miserably in his negotiations. The E U stitched up the UK like a kipper. Nigel Farage  offered his help but big head Boris declined. So this is why we are in this mess all because Johnson wasn't clever enough.  
×
×
  • Create New...