Jump to content

Can extraction gassoline disolve shelac?

Przemek
 Share

Recommended Posts

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, jdrichard said:

Lighter fluid is the best, most available and cheap

Surely  is not "the best", it is not reccomended by any school.or manufacturer, in short it is not an horological product. Of course it is on books that are 70 years old as they didi not had any better then. And about being cheap itay seem when you by 125cc, try comparing per liter to motor gasoline and petroleum ether. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deggsie WRT Addict

Deggsie

Posted
Posted
In the Netherlands we call car petrol "benzine", 95 or 98.
I just use isopropanol, recommended by a watchmakerfriend.

Isopropanol will soften and wash away the shellac. Take care with the balance and pallet fork. Just a quick dip of a few seconds, then straight onto watch paper to take off the excess, then use a puffer to dry the critical areas where the shellac bonds on the jewels.

After 4 years using lighter fluid and thinking I was getting parts clean, I now use Elma watch cleaning product. Amazing how I fooled myself about how clean was clean. Also, try an ultrasonic which are very cheap nowadays.

In general, IPA (isopropyl alcohol)is not a good cleaner, but is good for the final fine rinse if done quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Watchtime Super WRT Addict

Watchtime

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Deggsie said:


Isopropanol will soften and wash away the shellac. Take care with the balance and pallet fork. Just a quick dip of a few seconds, then straight onto watch paper to take off the excess, then use a puffer to dry the critical areas where the shellac bonds on the jewels.

After 4 years using lighter fluid and thinking I was getting parts clean, I now use Elma watch cleaning product. Amazing how I fooled myself about how clean was clean. Also, try an ultrasonic which are very cheap nowadays.

In general, IPA (isopropyl alcohol)is not a good cleaner, but is good for the final fine rinse if done quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@DeggsieHappily I only use  it for a quick dip...do you use the Elma cleaning product for  balance and pallet fork too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
On 6/7/2020 at 7:09 PM, markr said:

Manual states that gas is used as a rinse not as a cleaner.

It is a good rinse for an ammonia based solution bath but when it comes to soften old lubricants petrol is the most effective.

Of course do not expect it to brighten metal when used alone. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Deggsie WRT Addict

Deggsie

Posted
Posted
[mention=4300]Deggsie[/mention]Happily I only use  it for a quick dip...do you use the Elma cleaning product for  balance and pallet fork too?

Yes. Elma WF pro is safe with shellac.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...