Jump to content

Help with Main Barrel Bushing/Jewel Replacement


Recommended Posts

I have a UG218.2 with WAY too much sideshake in the main barrel. I have all ready replaced the arbor and will be moving on to dealing with the bushings. 

I'd like to try my hand at replacing the bushings with jewels. I'm going this route because 1. watch supply stores don't seem to sell the bushing and 2. I don't have a lathe. I'm basically at the point that I can try this because the next option is replacing the main plate and barrel bridge. So if I mess up the jewel replacement, I'm where I would be anyways. 

I measured the arbor: 

Top Pinion is 0.70mm

Bottom Pinion is 0.80mm

The bushings are still installed but measuring them on the main plate and barrel bridge comes up with: 

Barrel Bridge Bushing: ID: 0.80mm OD: 1.20mm

Main Plate Bushing: ID 0.90mm OD 1.80mm

It looks like I can get Seitz Center Jewels 30714 in sizes that will fit these measurements. Question is, how much space should I have for the arbor? For example, if the measurement is 0.70mm, do I get 76, 78, 80? 

Please let me know if you have any recommendations on this. TIA! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

0.01mm is a usual oversize for pivot clearance, on pivots that size 0.02mm is fine. So you want 0.72mm and 0.92mm. Which works out great as Seitz jewels move in 0.02mm increments at that size as I recall.

Thank you! That's what I'll order and give a try. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.
    • Well I’ve never seen the make before and cannot find any info, I haven’t got it just yet it’s been left to me among a 1970’s sea master and a mid size yeoman. But if anyone has any information on this one please feel free to enlighten me, many thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...