Jump to content

Making staking anvils


jdm

Recommended Posts

I have restored the below which is nice but  a bit quite limited. So I thought of turning few anvils or extra stakes  to complete the set - mainly for show.
What are the essential shapes / sizes that are recommended, and what material? I can also list the included stakes

P1250290.JPG.71b52389e6a0fe7ad79c9267668a15bf.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, vinn3 said:

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

That would be O-1 in most cases (oil quench), or W-1 (water quench). Available in any diameter imaginable, at least O-1 is, and flat bars. I wish it was available here as it's dirt cheap, available everywhere (there), and an excellent tool steel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi NIcklesilver  quite an array of tool stumps, impressive.     It can't be a mess if they are your tools and know where everything is.  It is organised.  stay safe
What keeps it fun is although I'm "independent" I share a workshop with a 4 man company, a numbers guy, a technical guy (designs/engineers the stuff) and two watchmakers. All great guys. The watchmakers are young and poorly tooled, so I give them free reign on my tools, machines, everything. So it does happen that I go for that favorite stump or broach or micrometer or whatever and have to make the rounds to find it. Usually makes for a much needed break!
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's very interesting information. I haven't tried to see if my bombé jewel holes have olive holes but I think I should be able to tell on the larger jewels at least. See if I get a chance to have a look later today. This little story was very comforting to read for a "bungler" like myself. That success isn't a given even for a pro. Thanks for sharing!
    • I forgot that I said I would do that. Will take some tomorrow and post them up post haste.
    • I've seen some really nice early 20th century pieces where all the jewels, including center wheel, were convex. Definitely to reduce friction. It can be quite hard to tell if a jewel has olive holes, especially on small sizes, but that again reduces friction- as well as accommodates small misalignments better. Why they aren't used more often? I imagine it was found that at a certain point in the train the actual advantage became negligible, and the added cost on high production movements is why it's not seen on those, just higher-end pieces.   I did an experiment on a little 5x7"' AS 1012 a few years back. These things run OK sometimes, but often are absolute dogs. And AS made gajillions of them. I had a NOS novelty watch in for a service, ran OK flat, massive drop in amplitude vertical. Made like 3 staffs for it trying different pivot sizes, no change. Tried high quality (not Seitz) convex/olive jewels, no change- the original were flat, but could have been olive hole. Same for the pallet fork, then escape wheel, no change. Probably had 20 hours in the watch, new staff and new hole jewels through the escape wheel, no difference in running. Just a dog of a movement. But if I were making a watch I would use them, just because.
    • When Nicklesilver mentioned the use of them on non coned pivots on older high end watches closer to the escapement.  That suggested to me  probably fourth wheels and possibly third wheels. The square shoulder rotatating on the much smaller surface area of a dome as opposed to a flat jewel surface. I'm curious as to why they are not used predominantly?
    • That's what I thought, but as I said, it makes sense. See if any of our pros will have something to add.
×
×
  • Create New...