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Making staking anvils


jdm

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I have restored the below which is nice but  a bit quite limited. So I thought of turning few anvils or extra stakes  to complete the set - mainly for show.
What are the essential shapes / sizes that are recommended, and what material? I can also list the included stakes

P1250290.JPG.71b52389e6a0fe7ad79c9267668a15bf.JPG

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You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

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5 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

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24 minutes ago, vinn3 said:

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

That would be O-1 in most cases (oil quench), or W-1 (water quench). Available in any diameter imaginable, at least O-1 is, and flat bars. I wish it was available here as it's dirt cheap, available everywhere (there), and an excellent tool steel.

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Hi NIcklesilver  quite an array of tool stumps, impressive.     It can't be a mess if they are your tools and know where everything is.  It is organised.  stay safe
What keeps it fun is although I'm "independent" I share a workshop with a 4 man company, a numbers guy, a technical guy (designs/engineers the stuff) and two watchmakers. All great guys. The watchmakers are young and poorly tooled, so I give them free reign on my tools, machines, everything. So it does happen that I go for that favorite stump or broach or micrometer or whatever and have to make the rounds to find it. Usually makes for a much needed break!
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