Jump to content

Hello, new here, starting a new hobby


Pauly

Recommended Posts

Hi, just introducing myself, I’m Paul(y), a chartered engineer based in Leamington Spa, I have always enjoyed repairing things, I often work on my own car rather than taking it to the garage. I love mechanical watches and own a few of them, but have always been a bit scared to open them up. I’ve watched a few of Mark’s videos on YouTube before and with some time on my hands of late, I enrolled on the watchrepairlessons modules and have just completed stage 1. I am waiting on some supplies to arrive (including a ‘practice watch’ with a Chinese 6497 clone in it) before embarking on the 2nd and 3rd stages. I am excited to get into what I hope will be an enjoyable and rewarding hobby. One of my Seikos (with a 6r15 movement) has been running erratically recently, so hopefully I can learn enough to dive into that once I’ve built up some confidence.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Have a couple of days not working, so setting off on part 2 of the lessons, really enjoying myself, only slight hiccup early on was the incabloc top spring came out completely when removing the balance pivot jewel, pinged it across room 4 times (but by some miracle located it each time :)) and finally got it safely back in place, only keyless works to go. I'm not taking the mainspring out of the barrel as I don't have a winder to put it back in.

IMG_20200518_162551.jpg

IMG_20200518_133139.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back together... and running. Was a good job I followed advice to photograph disassembly process, this is a slightly different variant to the one used in the course demo, the keyless works are 90 degrees out of position, and the train is slightly different too, the 3rd wheel sitting below the 4th rather than above. The incabloc setting jumped out on me again on reassembly, I've definitely taken a dislike to them! But those aside, have really enjoyed today, going to let it sit and see if it is still running tomorrow.

IMG_20200518_221338.jpg

IMG_20200518_162054.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's very interesting information. I haven't tried to see if my bombé jewel holes have olive holes but I think I should be able to tell on the larger jewels at least. See if I get a chance to have a look later today. This little story was very comforting to read for a "bungler" like myself. That success isn't a given even for a pro. Thanks for sharing!
    • I forgot that I said I would do that. Will take some tomorrow and post them up post haste.
    • I've seen some really nice early 20th century pieces where all the jewels, including center wheel, were convex. Definitely to reduce friction. It can be quite hard to tell if a jewel has olive holes, especially on small sizes, but that again reduces friction- as well as accommodates small misalignments better. Why they aren't used more often? I imagine it was found that at a certain point in the train the actual advantage became negligible, and the added cost on high production movements is why it's not seen on those, just higher-end pieces.   I did an experiment on a little 5x7"' AS 1012 a few years back. These things run OK sometimes, but often are absolute dogs. And AS made gajillions of them. I had a NOS novelty watch in for a service, ran OK flat, massive drop in amplitude vertical. Made like 3 staffs for it trying different pivot sizes, no change. Tried high quality (not Seitz) convex/olive jewels, no change- the original were flat, but could have been olive hole. Same for the pallet fork, then escape wheel, no change. Probably had 20 hours in the watch, new staff and new hole jewels through the escape wheel, no difference in running. Just a dog of a movement. But if I were making a watch I would use them, just because.
    • When Nicklesilver mentioned the use of them on non coned pivots on older high end watches closer to the escapement.  That suggested to me  probably fourth wheels and possibly third wheels. The square shoulder rotatating on the much smaller surface area of a dome as opposed to a flat jewel surface. I'm curious as to why they are not used predominantly?
    • That's what I thought, but as I said, it makes sense. See if any of our pros will have something to add.
×
×
  • Create New...