Jump to content

Old Half hunter pocket weatch

WildBill
 Share

Recommended Posts

WildBill Watch Enthusiast

WildBill

Posted
Posted

Hi, I been working on a half hunter pocket watch, I have serviced this watch and to my surprise there is no pallet fork.

On reassembly the watch runs well considering its age, but the hands "don't move" in 12 hours they moved from 12.00 to 1205

the continues to run happily until the spring runs down. 

I must have disassembled it 4 times trying to find the fault then i noticed the centre wheel (minute wheel) the long pivot was loose

surely this can't be right...My question is how do i correctly secure the pivot. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

I'm just guessing that this has a pin that goes all the way through the center wheel, and the canon pinion is fitted to this? If so, you will want to give that pin a tap with a punch near its "head", to create a little friction in the center wheel. You can also slightly bend them in the middle but they tend to be fragile.

 

If it has a classical canon pinion you will need to increase its friction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

How about showing a close up of what you are dealing with.

there are so many variations of stuff and variations in descriptions it's always nice if we can have a picture to see what you're looking at a wise we can guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
saswatch88 WRT Addict

saswatch88

Posted
Posted

In order to press the arbor C into the cannon pinion D a staking set is ideal, using a punch or hammer is not the best practice since you will have to support the top of the cannon pinion and press from the head of the arbor, but your support should have a hole big enough for the conical end of the arbor to fit or basically you hammer will sandwich the arbor which will cause it to bend, but if the canon pinion is not seated correctly then you didn’t do anything to solve your problem. The arbor is already slightly bent in order to create a tight fit. Now You can go the other way around but then a punch will be needed with a hole big enough for the canon pinion to fit. If there is a jewel present it should NOT be used as a support. If you have any pegwood you can make yourself a stake. And a staking block out of a piece of wood. Micro drills come in handy here.

70E2BDB6-6203-40FD-AA2C-5EE3613ADA94.png

4BBE2E46-606E-4F91-82CB-08F143E4F776.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • RichardHarris123
      Intro

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • oldhippy
      Without Our Forum

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • oldhippy
      Intro

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
×
×
  • Create New...