Jump to content

Reamer or Broach


Willow

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

Yes there are small ones, but others pop up as well such as Vevor, plain old Variable Speed Mini Lathe, Weiss, JY.

Vevor is one of the retailers  (they do not manufacture anything) selling at rock bottom prices, for the lathes that means minimal features and accessories, with QC practically absent.

Quote

I understand that most of all lathes on the internet will have been fabricated in China.

All of them without exception. The only smallish lathe and milling machines still made in Europe which could be of interest are Proxxon (aimed to hobby model making segment), and Wabeco. 

Quote

Having said that, I saw a Youtube video on a Proxxon (if I remember correctly) that had a wooden drive pulley on the motor. I am puzzled as to how that would occur?

That pulley is made of sinterized fiber, not wood, which is to increase friction. There is no disadvantage in strength, however with such little power involved that is never a concern. That being said being objective the Proxxon lathe is overpriced of a good 100% for what it delivers.

Anyway my warm suggestion for enthusiasts in watchmaking or clockmaking is not to get fixated with tools and details. Take things into your hands, take apart and put together as best you can with few basic tools. Only if the interest is still there and there with good  reason some months lather then it makes sense to start spending big about machining tools.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only reason that I have started looking at a lathe is the issue with bushing.

Bergeon kit bushes require a parallel hole, ala Bergeon reamers.

Tapered reamers are best used with bushes that are also tapered, ala machined by the repairer.

Trying to taper Bergeon kit bushes would be very impractical. Bergeon reamers require a drill press at a minimum. I have a Dremel workstation and I am looking at that as to whether it could be used with the Bergeon reamers. The jury is still out on that. I doubt it will be rigid enough.

@oldhippy would say to not get the Bergeon reamers and to machine your own bushes. Far more economical. A lathe however? $'s and which one? The secondhand market over here is more around industrial lathes. The market for mini lathes is just about new everywhere and that leads you down the path to the Chinese lathes or lathe/mill combinations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Michael1962 said:

The only reason that I have started looking at a lathe is the issue with bushing.

Ok. Leaving aside the fact that as you have mentioned as well there are ways to ream and bore soft materials without a powered tool, just for my curiosity, do you have a problematic piece at hand now? Or it's that you foresee the need to execute a perfect clock rebushing? Because my philosophy about this hobby is, take baby steps and worry about the bridge only when it's time to cross it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did anyone see The Repair Shop on the BBC (UK) They have a clock guy there who stripped, cleaned and re-bushed an old mantle clock. It's obviously edited but he made the bushing look so easy. He used a hand wound reaming tool followed by a hand operated bushing tool. They didn't go into great detail but it shows there's a lot of methods out there.

Hand Reaming 2.jpg

Hand Reaming1.jpg

Bushing.jpg

Mini Lathe.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like an old K W M bushing tool. He has everything to hand even a watchmakers lathe.  I can't comment on how he went about it. It is easy to bush clock plates, it's like anything just a bit of practice is all it takes, just don't practice on a valuable clock.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward?
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...