Jump to content

Valjoux 7733 - chrono stops before minute jump


Khan

Recommended Posts

Hi

The chronograph stops when chronograph wheel touches the sliding gear to turn the minute recorder. I also noticed that the minute recorder is not smooth enough when turning manually while sitting in position. Attached is a picture without chronograph bridge for highlighting. The sliding gear alone turns freely. The problem existed before servicing as well. 

20200429_084423.jpg

Edited by Khan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few things to check. On some chrono movements the hole in the mainplate for the lower pivot of the minute counter wheel is very close to the stem pivot, and a shock on the crown can distort the metal closing the hole slightly or allowing the stem to touch the counter pivot. Check that the minute counter wheel is very very free with the jumper spring removed. The hole in the mainplate can also simply be dirty, and as it is sort of buried in there is often overlooked for pegging.

 

When the finger on the chrono runner wheel comes in contact with a tooth on the sliding gear, it has to touch the flank of the tooth. If it touches tip to tip or even on the ogive, it can jam (if it's far enough along the ogive it's OK). You may need to adjust the depthing of the sliding gear, and/or shift the jumper to get the alignment right. With the chrono engaged a tooth on the sliding gear should be pointing at the center of the chrono runner. If you move the jumper you'll need to double check that the hammer is in full contact with the chrono runner heart cam and has a little play on the minute cam, while not pulling the minute wheel teeth to one side or the other of the jumper.

 

Don't oil the minute counter pivots.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks very much for informative guiding. I figured out that, when the half moon shaped metal with a hole on the upper part of the min. Rec. Runner (marked red on image), is passing below the chrono bridge, the resistance occurs! And the top pivot goes off center as well. 

20200430_034947.jpg

Edited by Khan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Melt said:

Never worked on one of these movements but if you remove the indexing spring from the minute record wheel does it still stop?

 

Hi Melt

It runs in the same way no matter with or without the spring. It doesn't have an effect. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After inspecting further, I believe that the chrono bridge hole for the minute rec. Wheel is too big as attached! That way, the wheel either get too loose or get stuck at the edge of chrono bridge hole. Am I right, that I need a new chrono bridge unless there is a way to repair/fix this? 

Screenshot_20200430-065203_Gallery.jpg

Edited by Khan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's kind of hard to see, but it does look a bit big. No need to change the bridge, that is a bushing and can be replaced with either a bushing or a jewel. What's puzzling is how it became enlarged, there is zero possibility that it happened through use. I have seen these where the bridge was screwed down with the pivot just outside the hole, and the pivot smashes the bushing closing the hole. Perhaps this happened and it was then broached a bit too much.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again:

Image 1 from before service and image 2 after service. I just don't have a jewelling tool, any one you can recommend from Cousins? They have the Horia in different versions. And how do You remove and fit a new bushing? Cant fint information anywhere on that. A new bridge would be the cheapest solution but a jewelling tool may be a good investment. 

 

Screenshot_20200430-160213_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20200430-155806_Gallery.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...