Jump to content

Replacing a setting lever

Bill3

By Bill3
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bill3 Watch Enthusiast

Bill3

Posted
Posted

I am working on an Eterna wristwatch and accidentally unscrewed the bolt that holds the setting lever in place.  I have been struggling for about three weeks now to reinstall the setting lever.  I would REALLY appreciate any and all help.  The problem can be divided into two parts.

1.  How to orient the setting lever into the proper position.

2.  How to hold the setting lever in that position while I turn the movement to the point that I can get to the screw with a screwdriver.  
I have tried using Rodico, but that failed miserably and left me with hours of work removing shreds of Rodico.  
 

I have attached two pictures, one without the setting lever and the other with the setting lever in place (perhaps not oriented properly).

The screwdriver points to the place where the setting lever goes.

As stated above all help will be deeply appreciated.

Bill3

 

 

 

C47D2EF2-6498-447E-8B80-BD15354932A1.jpeg

0FB8C727-9159-43F7-8251-BC3BDF565905.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Klassiker Distinguished Member

Klassiker

Posted
Posted

Looking at your photos, you still have Rodico all over the keyless works. Use a lump of Rodico to dab all the surfaces until all traces have been removed.

Ideally, you would remove the entire assembly, clean the parts and start again. As a minimum I would suggest you  remove the setting lever spring and fit the setting lever first. Without the tension from the spring it will be a lot easier to position the lever relative to the screw. Use a small piece of Rodico on the setting lever, then put your finger tip on the Rodico to position the lever while you fit the screw from the dial side. then put the spring back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
Posted (edited)

Guess Rodico is the least of problems you have in this setup.
That spring is in the completely wrong place. if you look at the setting lever jumper you see it has small indentations in it that fitts a small nob on the setting lever, those small indentations are what decide what mode you put the keyless work in, not the setting lever it self.
77052776_Settinglever.thumb.jpg.43372717ddd4db999ff0450f9f4cbee5.jpg

 

Edited by HSL
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • RichardHarris123
      Intro

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • oldhippy
      Without Our Forum

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
×
×
  • Create New...