Jump to content

Valjoux 7730 vs valjoux 7733

Hopgoblin

By Hopgoblin
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

manodeoro WRT Addict

manodeoro

Posted
Posted
Does anyone know whether the dial feet changed between these 2 movements? I found a Breitling dial for sale, that looks exactly like what I need except it is being advertised as a 7733 while my watch is a 7730. Thanks
7730 was basically a Venus 188
7733 was completely redesigned but same fonctions as 7730
I think the position of subdials are the same but I'm not 100% certain ...

Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
Posted (edited)

One can see dials as these at Ebay marked fitting 7730 or 7733 but as you say seldom together.
Probably not to get a too many franken watches beeing built. I have non of these needing service right now so I decided to make an experiment.
Take a random picture from one who sells a dial to a 7730 dial and one who sells a 7733 and superimpose them over eatch other.
A fun excersize on a sunday. The result except from a slight skewness in the pictures shows the dial feet are at the same place.

Sunday_Fun.jpg.7fffa9fc4afa54110476985f98615700.jpg
 

Edited by HSL
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
manodeoro WRT Addict

manodeoro

Posted
Posted
I can use any info! Thanks
The original Venus 188 and the early 7730 had a flat pillar plate.
The later 7730 and the 7733 had a beveled pillar plate.
What you could do is to remove the dial from your 7730 and check if :
- your 7730 has a beveled pillar plate
- the holes for dial feet are about 12:45 and 8:15
If YES then a 7733 dial may work.
If your 7630 is an early one and has a flat pillar plate, then probably not.

Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
Speedster1968 New Member

Speedster1968

Posted
Posted

I appreciate that the original post is a little old now, however thought I'd share some info to assist this and others that may have similar questions.  So I have a couple of Cal 7733s and a recent purchase of a 7730. As called out in previous responses, there are two variants of the 7730, with either a flat or beveled pillar plate - mine is the beveled, the later version.  

Being the newer beveled version, I was expecting a 7733 dial to fit nicely, however it does not.  Whilst the dial feet are in the same positions and the sub dial pillars line up nicely, the bottom dial foot (midway between 7 and 8 clock) is marginally closer to the centre of the movement that on the 7733.  

So in summary a 7733 dial does not fit my 7730 movement.

I hope it helps..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...