Jump to content

Cleaning an 1800s Waltham


Recommended Posts

Another good one JD. Low amplitude seems to be an issue with some vintage pocket watches. Recently I had the same issue but a lot worse than the Waltham. On an English lever pocket watch I changed the balance staff & hairspring and it was spotlessly clean but still gave a low amp certainly no more than 180°.  Wondering if these vintage watches were never designed to gave a high amp.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently had a 1920's Waltham 8 day car clock that I couldn't squeeze any more than 220 amplitude out of after fully servicing and replacing both mainsprings, which incidentally was like trying to find unicorn poo. Timesavers had a set thankfully.

Nice job JD,,, always a pleasure watching you work!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another good one JD. Low amplitude seems to be an issue with some vintage pocket watches. Recently I had the same issue but a lot worse than the Waltham. On an English lever pocket watch I changed the balance staff & hairspring and it was spotlessly clean but still gave a low amp certainly no more than 180°.  Wondering if these vintage watches were never designed to gave a high amp.

You perhaps are correct. If the hairspring was not stiff back in the day, there would be more resistance to turning or coiling and uncoiling. I just hate to see poor amplitude.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently had a 1920's Waltham 8 day car clock that I couldn't squeeze any more than 220 amplitude out of after fully servicing and replacing both mainsprings, which incidentally was like trying to find unicorn poo. Timesavers had a set thankfully.
Nice job JD,,, always a pleasure watching you work!

Perhaps that pallet fork arrangement can’t put enough force on the impulse Jewel to get a high amplitude. I do however have a RR grade Elgin that is full plate and has excellent amplitude. My wife is still looking for Unicorn Poop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/18/2020 at 5:06 AM, clockboy said:

Another good one JD. Low amplitude seems to be an issue with some vintage pocket watches. Recently I had the same issue but a lot worse than the Waltham. On an English lever pocket watch I changed the balance staff & hairspring and it was spotlessly clean but still gave a low amp certainly no more than 180°.  Wondering if these vintage watches were never designed to gave a high amp.

One thing to remember for amplitude you have to get the lift angle correct. American pocket watches are seldom 52°.

On 4/18/2020 at 5:06 AM, clockboy said:

English lever pocket watch

As the English lever escape wheel teeth are different shape I don't know if that would change the signal  timing which would definitely cause the timing machine to have an issue. At least for amplitude rate should be fine.

Then on pocket watches very important to do your escapement checks. Make sure your banking pins are where there supposed to be unfortunately American pocket watches with the movable banking pins they've probably been moved not always for the best. Then occasionally the pallet stones are quite not where there supposed to be either. It's amazing how poorly the watch to run if the escapement isn't correct.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another good one JD. Low amplitude seems to be an issue with some vintage pocket watches. Recently I had the same issue but a lot worse than the Waltham. On an English lever pocket watch I changed the balance staff & hairspring and it was spotlessly clean but still gave a low amp certainly no more than 180°.  Wondering if these vintage watches were never designed to gave a high amp.

Thank a lot. I just need to see the high amplitude to be satisfied.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the English lever escape wheel teeth are different shape I don't know if that would change the signal  timing which would definitely cause the timing machine to have an issue. At least for amplitude rate should be fine.
Then on pocket watches very important to do your escapement checks. Make sure your banking pins are where there supposed to be unfortunately American pocket watches with the movable banking pins they've probably been moved not always for the best. Then occasionally the pallet stones are quite not where there supposed to be either. It's amazing how poorly the watch to run if the escapement isn't correct.

Great advice, thanks. I did not check the banking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
×
×
  • Create New...