Old Hermes watch help needed

[MrUseless]

Hi all, 

thanks for taking the time to read my post. I have an old Hermes watch that has been sat in a drawer for years. It needs a few things to get it working so hoping you can help. I didn’t want to do anything before consulting this forum.

1/ The glass was replaced at some point but I think it’s the wrong type, it was a high domed acrylic glass which looks to have been glued in - I think it should be friction fit. I’ve checked on my vernier calipers and it’s bang on 30mm - the glass that has fallen out seems to have worn at the edges but it 29.7mm so may explain why it is falling out. What would you recommend I replace with? I think it would have come with acrylic from speaking to a couple of watch dealers so perhaps worth replacing with a low dome one?

 

2/ The face if the watch is obviously a bit sun damaged and aged which I’m ok with but it has got some dirt on it I think. I don’t know if I should just blow some compressed air on it or if I should wipe it but I’m worried about making it worse. Any suggestions welcome - I tried to get a close up.

 

3/ I need a new strap and pins - it’s 18mm. I was going to keep it classic so thinking a leather strap - any suggestions what I should get? Not sure what to pair it with.

[transporter]

Wow, nice piece, ok I would go for original look, if it’s a 30 mm high done Plexi then get one, you say friction fit, the old one might of had a tension ring on the crystal, if so there’s your friction fit. It’s common practice to use glue to set crystals in place, we use a uv glue that dries clear and you cannot see that it has been used. 
As for the dial, personally I would use some rodico and roll it across the dial, this will pick up all the bits and anything else like finger prints.
For the strap, that’s going to be up to you as to what style you go with but there are tons of 18mm straps out there, get on eBay and find a distressed/worn leather one.

[MrUseless]

Thanks glad you like it. I’ve been meaning to sort this for ages!

 

the one that fell off measured around 4.5mm and was far too tall. I think about half that would be more in keeping.

 

is there a different between crystal and acrylic?

[transporter]

Crystal is the correct name for the watch glass, so you can have a plastic crystal or even a Saphire crystal. 

[watchweasol]

 lHi A classic looking piece Movement I think is a Fontainmelon     cal  cant see properly but looks like ?x303

Is this correct.  To clean the dial a cotton bud moistened with water and carefully applied in a circular motion then dry with a lint free cloth ( a spectacle cloth) nothing else. The rodico will also fift surface dirt. As far as the crystal goes follow transporters advise. For the strap brown leather to tone with the case and retain the classic look   can you post the correct calibre number please   its under the balance rim along with the makers mark.     cheers

[MrUseless]

The watch was passed on to me so don’t know too much about it. I can’t see any meaningful markings on it unfortunately.

 

thanks - can anyone recommend me the best glue for this?

[watchweasol]

Hi  just under the balance rim there is ebauches mark and a number  can you get a close up of it and we will do the rest      cheers

 

[rodabod]

Hi, The Japanese are big collectors of these  - worth knowing if you ever decide to sell.

[MrUseless]

2 hours ago, MrUseless said:

The watch was passed on to me so don’t know too much about it. I can’t see any meaningful markings on it unfortunately.

 

thanks - can anyone recommend me the best glue for this?

Wow that is so cool. You certainly know you stuff! I had a look with my eye piece and I can see a little HF I think stamped, and a 383. 
 

[transporter]

As for glue you’ll need gs hypo glue, beware though, when you give the tube the lightest of a squeeze the glue comes running and running and running, so be very careful when applying it ok

[watchweasol]

Hi  If you are going to change the crystal  Ther is a good tutorial and other useful information on the site shown   Th crystal fitting guide I think you will find useful..    I Have attached the tech sheet for the Felsa 383 which I think is your movement.                                                                        

 

Felsa 383, 384.pdf

[MrUseless]

Brilliant thanks!!!

What is the best way to determine which crystal I get - since they are cheap I might get a couple of low domes and see what I want. I think 2mm ish will work the hands don’t need much clearance, although keen to keep as close to what the original might have been as possible. 
 

ive just ordered that glue too and will check out the video before attempting it.

[transporter]

As for the crystal, don’t worry too much about hand clearance, the seating point for the crystal is above the hand height, and also the crystals unless flat are all concave.

[Watchtime]

very nice vinatge one ...:) Seeing the edges of the case I thing the crystal would be press fitted.

Here is some good info on reinstalling a crystal with tensionring.

https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/tension-ring-falling-out-of-crystal.145827/

[MrUseless]

Thanks!

 

Do you know if it’s possible to date this watch? If not accurately then approximately would be good.

[watchweasol]

Looking at the style  I would think late 30s early 40s may be later

[AlexeiJ1]

I thought these are totally fake???
There were millions of them on eBay from Argentina and they all had the same shonky stamping on the barrel wheel.
Usually re-dialed dial from a generic bottom tier plated tier swiss swatch.

Can anyone prove otherwise? There is very little to suggest they are actually Hermes.
There are heaps of fake Girrard Perregaux as well from Argentina in the same style.

[transporter]

I’ve had a look around the rep sites and not found one, looking at this one it looks legit. But who knows, some of the reps out there now are seriously good time pieces 

[AlexeiJ1]

On 4/9/2020 at 10:10 PM, transporter said:

I’ve had a look around the rep sites and not found one, looking at this one it looks legit. But who knows, some of the reps out there now are seriously good time pieces 

I meant like a vintage fake. They take an old random Lanco or  some other such garbage, clean the dial - reprint it with a Hermes style dial, then stamp HERMES onto the winding wheel.