Hi John. Yes it's unfortunate but as you say, an opportunity. When I'm finished (it seems in about 7-10 years) I'll have a bench that I would not have access to with my means; not to mention shipping costs. I'll know what everything is made of and at the very least, it's ALL real wood, and high quality woods. Small touches like inexpensive hardwood 5mm plywood for drawer bottoms make it special to me. This particular ply has real wood grain that you don't generally see.
watchweasol, thank you. I made a box joint jig. I'm using a radial arm (chop) saw to cut items, and a circular saw table for the jig/box joints. A router was on my list, but only for the skirting material on the sides and back of the work surface. I wound up not getting one, as there's no shortage of ornate moldings and trim that are already routed somewhat closely to what I envisioned.
I might still get a router and put a radius on the drawer false-fronts, the work surface adjacent to me, and the 4 vertical edges. If it will enhance the utility and appearance, I'm all for it.
One thing I need is a planer for the box joints. Either that or a belt sander to make quick work of it.
This is an evolution, and I'm sure will change as I go along.
Please could someone help me with a basic question as I live on a remote Uk island with no watchmakers.
I am about to replace the ETA 955412 movement in my 1992Tagheuer 6000. (See picture)
I have removed the Tag stem from the old broken movement and before removing the (temporary stem ?) and inserting my tag stem into new ETA I wanted to ensure I have the stem in the correct position and if battery should be in.
I have read conflicting stem positions on line hence the question.
Thanks for reading any help would be appreciated.