Jump to content

Nice 23 Jewel Russian Sekonda Bought From The Bay..


daz

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I took a punt at the last minute on this 23 Jewel Russian Luch Sekonda last week on the Bay, I took a chance on it because I thought it was one of the scarcer Blue Dials that had been put in a gold plated case, but did not have enough time to read the listing until after :biggrin: when the listing stated a Black Dial I was slightly disapointed. Anyway after reminding myself to always read a listing before bidding, I looked forward to receiving the watch, so I could get to work on it. I thought I would share some photos of the process with you all..

It did not turn out too bad at all

Best Wishes to you all

Darren

post-286-0-97672800-1422127154_thumb.jpg

post-286-0-80430800-1422127278_thumb.jpg

post-286-0-31780200-1422127361_thumb.jpg

post-286-0-73229400-1422127438_thumb.jpg

post-286-0-23155800-1422127513_thumb.jpg

post-286-0-01853500-1422127589_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many Thanks Guys

Judging by the 1st photo I was hoping it was the crystal that was damaged and not the dial, I was quite relieved when I received and checked it and found the dial to be in great condition

another one saved from scrapheap...

Many Thanks Guys

Best Wishes

Darren

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a very tidy job and a fantastic restoration.

 

I love the apparent excess of intermediate wheels between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel and wonder what the rationale behind it is. I have come across it on other Soviet watches (most recently a Slava 2414) which have had two mainsprings and barrels, but this one seems to have only one. The arrangement doesn't even change the direction of rotation of the crown relative to the ratchet wheel.

 

A top notch result anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Marc

Many Thanks..

The arrangement of the intermediate wheels has to follow that order as well, they don't fit any other way
there is also two extra wheels under the train bridge thus making 5 wheels in total, the Soviets have some really interesting
movements with some great design features yet also some of their ideas for their movements seen to be based on a Fri afternoon thought :)

 

I am just cleaning another one now and have another following in the post, should be here next week... :P

 

 

Many Thanks and Best Wishes

 

 

Darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Very nice work! When I saw your first photo, I too was worried about what looked like dial damage.

 

Regarding the extra wheels, perhaps the Ministry of Watch Wheels produced too many wheels, so the Ministry of Watch Movements had to design a movement to use them all. Such is Soviet management. :)

Edited by svorkoetter
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Svorkoetter,

Many Thanks for your post...

It was a complete gamble with only a minute to decide, at best I would come out with a great watch at worst some spares for a different restoration fortunately it was the former...

These movements are pretty good to work on but I wonder why Luch opted for the Tri-shock shock system for the 23 jewel rather than the inca in its 19 jewel cousin as well as a fixed stud carrier rather than movable. I think this model could pre-date the 19 jewel Raketa...

Best wishes

Darren

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the apparent excess of intermediate wheels between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel and wonder what the rationale behind it is. I have come across it on other Soviet watches (most recently a Slava 2414) which have had two mainsprings and barrels, but this one seems to have only one. The arrangement doesn't even change the direction of rotation of the crown relative to the ratchet wheel.

2 barrels usually give increased power reserve or more leveled torque or flexibility in components arrangement or combination of thereof. In case of Slava, it is components arrangement. (And, maybe torque, but i don't know about that in Slava's case.) Certainly not power reserve: Slava movements have 31-40 hour, depending on movement.

 

The arrangement of the intermediate wheels has to follow that order as well, they don't fit any other way...

Yes, they don't. 2209 was Soviet thin watch. From ranfft.de: "With an intermediate wheel between minute pinion and a separate minute wheel the complete train is moved from the center to the periphery. And due to the indirect sweep second, there is also no second wheel in the center. Thus neither balance nor barrel is overlapped by any wheel, and the complete height is available for barrel and balance. The result is a rather low profile without reducing sturdiness or accuracy."

 

... but I wonder why Luch opted for the Tri-shock shock system for the 23 jewel rather than the inca in its 19 jewel cousin as well as a fixed stud carrier rather than movable. I think this model could pre-date the 19 jewel Raketa...

Mobile stud carrier was later development. (And different balance ring.) Your movement is pre 1983. They were made since 1961.

 

Can't comment on Tri-shock vs Incablock question. Or on relationship of Raketa and Luch.

 

Denis

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a fantastic explanation Thanks very much for that Denis

I now know who to seek out if I have any questions/problems with Soviet made movements

My thanks and Best Wishes

Darren

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel. 
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...