Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch.
Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies.
While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”.
For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples!
A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video.
Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive.
Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication.
So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!
Hello dear watchmakers!
I am now working on a SU movement, Slava 2427. It is a manual-wind movement with day-date complication
I am trying to assemble the watch back together after service but I am stuck on the day disc.
The day disc is fitted OK in my view, teeth underneath the disc interacts with the click and the disc advances naturally as other motion works move clockwise.
However, the problem is that the days written on the disc are not in the right position and do not fit inside the day window of the dial.
What could I have done wrong??
Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
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This is the progress so far. The first image is the ebay seller's pic and the description was "Does not start, maybe battery but unable to confirm". In reality, it wouldn't wind, wouldn't set and the scratched up crystal looked even worse in real life (and the second hand had fallen off in the post), but I figured it had to be the twin of the one I already had, and therefore was well worth the 0.99p I bid.
Thanks for the correction regarding the movement. You are spot on with the fiddly calendar works, the first one I looked at, I launched those two springs more times than I care to mention, however forewarned is forearmed, so this one came as no surprise, and I even remembered which way round everything went without having to dig out my pictures of the first teardown. If you are aware of the issues and take care to do things very gently, the calendar works go back together reasonably easily. I did mange to gocha myself with the keyless works by pulling the crown out with the stem in the wrong position, but I knew I had been an idiot the moment I did it, so I only managed to indulge in that one screwup. The watch is running well, but I haven't attempted to adjust it yet. Beat error is around .1 to .3ms and it kept up a good pace, within 20 seconds or so over the course of the day even without me tinkering with it. I'll let the lubrication settle and do a bit more with it tomorrow. The amplitude is still a little low at around 240 fully wound, so there is scope for a little improvement in that too. The other one runs around 270, so there is no reason to think this wont. I have an almost complete spare movement, including a mainspring, etc.so if I need parts I have them. That red and gold Poljot on your "About me" page is a cracker, as are the others in your collection.