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Raymond Weil Keyless Repair help and movement screw retainers.


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Being the clumsy ****** I am I dropped by beautiful Raymond Weil maestro on a hard floor after so carefully protecting it when I went to the gym. 
The minute hand came loose so figured I would press that back on and hoped nothing else would be broken on it.

Unfortunately it wasn’t as I undid the screws holding the movement in place I noticed two were broken. Not sure what these are called sorry perhaps lugs, collars or washers. These locate in a groove (again probably the wrong term) inside the case. 
anyway I was pleased once I got the minute hand back on it worked great. I went to put the crown in to wind up the watch and test it kept time. I must have pressed to hard and ruined the keyless works.

So - I’ve taken the hands off now and the ring around the edge of the watch and I think I now need to take the dial off to access the keyless works. I’ve tried to photograph two semi circles which I think are the next step in the process. Am I right? If so how so I get the dial/face off? I’ve paused for now in case I’m wrong.

Also, in the meantime if anyone knows how I can get those washers/collars please let me know.

Thanks in advance for anyone taking their time to read this, really hoping to get this back working. The quote I got to repair it was about the same as it’s value so it’s either fix it or sadly leave it in my parts drawer!

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What has probably happened is the clutch and crown wheel are displaced due to removing the stem with it in the wrong position allowing the parts to become free. as you have rightly diagnosed the problem next step is to remove the dial and hands, Have a look round the circumference of the watch you should find two small screws these hold the dial feet and therefore hold the dial in place. Back off the screws enough to allow you to remove the dial. If the watch has a calendar ring on it that will have to be removed as well to gain access to the key less work and ti realign it. Once done  refit the stem.now pull the stem to the set position  and remove the stem the parts should stay in place. Reassemble the watch and re it to case then re insert stem.  The watch looks like an eta movement if you can find and post the caliber number(near the balance) we may be able to find a tech sheet for you to aid assembly,

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2 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Have a look round the circumference of the watch you should find two small screws these hold the dial feet and therefore hold the dial in place

Not on this movement, which is an ETA of some sort (or derivative thereof). There are 2 cut aways in the bridges which I think are what you are referring to. They should expose a banana shaped lever or cam at the edge of the main plate, with a pip at one end and a pivot at the other. Gently lever out the pip end away from the movement so that it pivots around the other end. As you swing it out it will release the dial foot. Once both dial feet are released the dial can lift off. I will try and post pics later if I can find a similarly equipped movement. 

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Hello MrUseless, I'm a newbie just like you. I can sympathize with you. Knowing that you might have contributed to the demise of your favorite watch. This was exactly how I got into watch repair. 

Thankfully our fearless leader has several good videos on YouTube that will walk you through this difficult times. I was extremely lucky as Mark used the exact same movement as mine for his video. ( ETA 2824 or 2836, I can't remember)

Good luck and Welcome!

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3 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

I suspect the winding pinion has slipped and the yoke and hacking lever is out of place.

It happened to me today just trying to reinsert stem to a genuine ETA having the same keyless design. It is not even the simpler ,or or better designed system.

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Thanks again for all the help everyone.

Ive studied the schematics which show the keyless mechanism clearly but I’m not sure how to access them. I think there is a plate that holds it in place but before I do anything can I check with you I’m doing it correctly.

 

see the pictures attached below - I’ve circled what I think I need to undo. Is this spring loaded?

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It seems your keyless work has been misaligned, this isn´t a big thing to fix but it seems you are missing the date corrector wheel to.
Even if this movement is a Sellita SW200-1 you should be able to put it together with the 2824-2 manual previously provided.
Some time ago I made some PDF:s which are on this site too on how to take a 2824-2 apart and put it together again, take a look in those and you will be fine.. 2005095137_MissingPart.thumb.png.0a997822398c9331fd970024019c2c7b.png

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Hi sorry for all the questions. I followed the guide which was very helpful as well as a YouTube which I found useful to compliment. 
 

I tested it and the stem just came out with no resistance although I was sure the keyless works were placed correctly (perhaps not).

first can I check my stem is ok with you all? Here is the picture of my stem.
 

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Hi again,
Yes the stem looks to be in a good shape.
If the stem came just right out it might be because it wasn't fully inserted, sometimes one have to gently push the setting lever nobb with a screwdriver which fits in the slot at the same time you insert the stem. If you use a screwdriver with the propper width you don´t risk to push the nobb all the way again and misalign the setting lever again, so don't use a too pointy thing.
If the keyless is correctly assembled then the little nobb in the end of the setting lever should go straight into the slott at the back of your stem.

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Great news. I disassembled and reassembled and I can now get to the setting position fine and I can see the minute wheel turning as expected.

 

the bad news is I can’t wind up the watch. It feels far too tight and I don’t want to turn it any harder than I am in case I break anything. 
Does this sound like a common issue? I was thinking perhaps I’ve over tightened something or that the setting lever jumper is bent.

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It isn’t because it’s wound, you can tell with the Movement. It feels tight as well even on the setting position, much more resistant than a similar Raymond Weil freelancer watch I own and just tried. It was working before I took it apart so I’m assuming it’s something I’ve done.

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Sounds like your on your way in the right direction, maybe some part is a little bit scew or you just need to lubricate it a bit.
And you are right about the fully wound theory, an automatic watch has mainspring that will slipp a bit when fully wound, the mainspring is held in place by friction so you don't have to worry about the winding force. On a manual the spring is held in place by a notch in the barrel and because of that you cant wind it to far.

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Sorry everyone more questions. This watch may be in a worse shape than a realised. So the setting position and keyless all seems fine, i can see the position move in the setting jumper and I can wind the watch fine.

ive stripped the keyless again and reinserted the stem again to check. When I manually push the sliding pinion onto the winding pinion and turn I am met with the same resistance. I can’t turn the stem.

i can wind up the watch manually with the oscillating weight (I think it’s called the half circle metal at the back) and it all works fine.

 

ive tried to photograph what I think is the issue. Sorry I don’t know the correct terms, but this wheel seems stuck. 
Also the bearing needs replacing on the oscillating weight it seems to have play.

 

Ive been trying to work out what is wrong studying the manuals but am unsure now sorry to keep asking!

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    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
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