Jump to content
  • 0

Seiko pushers


Question

Hi friends, a quick question about chrono pushers. I’m replacing them on a 6138-0020 and noticed that the one I took out is shorter then the replacement. It's a little sticky too, although I attribute that to the new gasket?  The longer ones work, just seem to stick out a bit. Would anyone know if seiko made different pushers for different models of the same caliber (-0040, -0030, 0020, etc)?

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

If you’re asking if they’re different pushers for say the UFO vs the Kakume vs the Panda....then yes, I’m almost certain there are. I own a UFO, and that has concentric circles in their pushers (something to look for when determining authenticity) but I don’t believe all other models have this. I only know for sure with the UFO cause that’s what I did the most research on. 
I would look at it like the pushers are more a part of the case, then the movement. Each case type is gonna be different.

If you’re asking does the same case type have different types of pushers? Then I can’t say for sure...but knowing Seiko....possibly. Wouldn’t put it past them.

Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bezel,  the metalic ring in which the crystal fits is to be removed if this is a front loader.
    • Hey Poljot are they sapphire crystals?  I agree don't get me wrong I'm just throwing in a bit of humour at my expense. But thanks for the link to the crystals 😃
    • Hardly a definitive resource, but calibercorner lists 200/150/80/30 so hopefully that makes it even more confusing. I'd check the ETA technical documentation to be sure. The only other thing I can contribute is that the subdials _can_ definitely be different hole sizes (like a valjoux 7733)
    • Hi all, I took Mark's courses about a year ago, and am hooked. Frustrating yes, but I've learned so much (most of all, what I don't know!). I love to acquire watches not running well or not at all, and try to revive them.   Now here's my latest problem: It's a vintage Ernest Borel that I just can't get out of the case. I've removed the back and the crystal, hands, crown/stem, and all the parts accessible from the back, but the movement will not budge.   Any suggestions greatly appreciated.   Thanks much   Fred
    • Woolshire, a common way of realising a stop work in a watch is by having a maltese cross and a finger wheel installed on the barrel cover. First you let down the mainspringing. Although there is still half to one turn of power in the barrel you dont't need to worry. It won't reach the going train because the stop work stoped it. Take out the barrel and clamp it by the barrel arbour in a vice - barrel cover up looking at the stop work. Now turn the barrel with left hand thumb and index finger just a bit to free the stop work. Take out the finger wheel with a pair of tweezers. Still grabing the now free barrel let down the last remaining power carefully between your fingers. Assembly is the same backwards. All the best from Hamburg Alex p.s. carefully make a note or a picture of the stop work wheels start position.
×
×
  • Create New...