Hi Gary at all times unless testing the movement leave the battery out, whilst manipulating the stem into position . It will be best to use the stem provided with the module. some of the modules require you to put the stem into set position before removing as this keeps the clutch assembly and associated gears in place to enable an easy fit of the stem. Failure to do so causes the clutch to drop requiring re alignment before the new stem can be fitted. To do that you need to remove the calendar work to gain access to the keyless work. I have attached the tech sheet which covers this movement for you. good luck
ETA 955.102, 955.112, 955.122, 955.132, 955.402, 955.412, 955.422, 955.432.pdf
I did end up seeing the difference between the top and bottom cap-jewels on the Incabloc. That was nice to learn. Thanks, JohnR725!
Still, even after making sure the end-stones were in their proper places, the watch was making an odd audible tick intermittently. And it would stop. I took a second to look at the balance assembly and saw that the regulator arm was displaced a bit off of the top of the balance cock. I hadn't removed it for cleaning, so it wasn't me. No matter though. I situated it properly on balance cock and the watch is now running very strongly. I'll see how long it does so. It is no longer making the odd audible tick so I'm pretty confident that all will be well. Thanks all !
Premature victory dance. I should have known better. Little bugger stopped again. Rats!
Wow, thanks everyone, there's a whole lot of awesome information happening here! This went a whole lot deeper that I thought it would. I think a 3 jaw is still the most fitting for what I'm looking to do. jdrichard, great video! What you have there is exactly what I would be looking for and after looking into it those pieces are way more affordable than what I have been finding on ebay.
Hi John. Yes it's unfortunate but as you say, an opportunity. When I'm finished (it seems in about 7-10 years) I'll have a bench that I would not have access to with my means; not to mention shipping costs. I'll know what everything is made of and at the very least, it's ALL real wood, and high quality woods. Small touches like inexpensive hardwood 5mm plywood for drawer bottoms make it special to me. This particular ply has real wood grain that you don't generally see.
watchweasol, thank you. I made a box joint jig. I'm using a radial arm (chop) saw to cut items, and a circular saw table for the jig/box joints. A router was on my list, but only for the skirting material on the sides and back of the work surface. I wound up not getting one, as there's no shortage of ornate moldings and trim that are already routed somewhat closely to what I envisioned.
I might still get a router and put a radius on the drawer false-fronts, the work surface adjacent to me, and the 4 vertical edges. If it will enhance the utility and appearance, I'm all for it.
One thing I need is a planer for the box joints. Either that or a belt sander to make quick work of it.
This is an evolution, and I'm sure will change as I go along.
Please could someone help me with a basic question as I live on a remote Uk island with no watchmakers.
I am about to replace the ETA 955412 movement in my 1992Tagheuer 6000. (See picture)
I have removed the Tag stem from the old broken movement and before removing the (temporary stem ?) and inserting my tag stem into new ETA I wanted to ensure I have the stem in the correct position and if battery should be in.
I have read conflicting stem positions on line hence the question.
Thanks for reading any help would be appreciated.