Jump to content

Seiko 5 7S26B... sigh


Recommended Posts

My latest project is a Seiko 5 with a 7S26B. First, I could tell this was going to be a real fixer upper when the pallet fork stuck to the bridge from too much oil. I now have to find out what size screwdriver to use on the one sole phillips/cross screw under the calendar wheel. However, after looking closer at it, it is stripped.

So, I need to know what size screwdriver to get for this one solitary screw and what to do with a stripped screw.

Thank you for you help on advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 screws (3x A type and 1x B type). First we will unscrew one B type screw, part number 0016 705. It is a phillips head screw. (Another unorthodox component!). To be able to remove this screw, we would have to make a tool - a "half phillips head screwdriver". :-)

 

Seiko 7s26 diy disassembly - date indicator maintaining plate

Place a sheet of medium coarse (400 or 600 grade) sand paper on to a flat surface and shape the blade of your smallest size screwdriver (40 or 60 / 0.40 or 0.60mm) as per photo.

 

Seiko DIY 7S26 - 40 or 60 screwdriver

DIY Seiko 7S26 - 0.40mm or 0.60mm screwdriver

Seiko 7S26 Date Plate screw A

Seiko Date Plate screw A

Seiko 7S26 Date Plate

Seiko Date Plate screw A

Hi there hope this helps. Hopefully you will get enough traction to remove the screw.....:)

 

Edited by Graziano
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, sjhilbel said:

Graziano, this is great! I’ve been search for this special screwdriver all day, when I could have been making my own. I’m still a watch repair noob so I’m still learning these tricks. Thank you!

All good take care 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a nifty trick @Graziano and the illustrations are just brilliant! Thank you! Anyway, Cousinsuk.com have this SEIKO S-921 screwdriver in case you don't want to make your own tool.

Did you make your illustrations to answer this question in particular or are your pictures from a walkthrough? In the latter case could you provide a link?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

That's a nifty trick @Graziano and the illustrations are just brilliant! Thank you! Anyway, Cousinsuk.com have this SEIKO S-921 screwdriver in case you don't want to make your own tool.

Did you make your illustrations to answer this question in particular or are your pictures from a walkthrough? In the latter case could you provide a link?

 

This is great info enjoy https://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Graziano said:

With all the due respect, I do not agree that the above is that great, or even that should be given as an example all the time.
For one, is incomplete, ending with train is placed together. And some practices are debatable, for example the one of opening the barrel and fitting the mainspring without a winder.
I recommend the OP to look instead at the video below by hour Host Mark Lovick. He also made some more about the same mov't. Even better would be to enroll in his training,

watchrepairlessons.com

 

 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, jdm said:

With all the due respect, I do not agree that the above is that great, or even that should be given as an example. For one, is incomplete, ending even with the train is placed together. The, some practices are debatable, for example the one of opening the barrel and fitting the mainspring without a winder. I recommend the OP to look instead at the video below by hour Host Mark Lovick. He also made some more abput the sam mov't. Even better would be to enroll in training, watchrepairlessons.com

 

The original post was about the screw driver required for 0016 705 screw ,this method of filing down works for burred screws as you can work the screwdriver to fit the stripped head enough to get traction in most cases works for me ,enjoy I don't see your problem :jig:

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reading the following on the SEIKO DIY site Graziano linked to was a bit of a turn off:

"If you are just an amateur horologist or hobbyist, then it is highly unethical, unprofessional and most likely illegal to repair other people's watches - even if they want you to do so."

Being exactly that, "just a hobbyist", it feels like a pretty condescending statement, especially as it's given without any kind of explanation.

Anyway, I really enjoyed how thoroughly he goes through what the various SEIKO numbers mean, and I'm sure I'll have more to learn from that site, so much appreciated Graziano. I'll consider it a complement to @Mark's excellent 7s26 videos on his YT channel.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Graziano said:

The original post was about the screw driver required for 0016 705 screw

I think you misunderstood the scope of my comment. I have no quibble about that detail, but expressed my general opinion about the 7S26 articles by Mr. Hacko.

Again to help the OP, without even leaving this forum there is plenty of detailed photographic information on  the very popular mov't.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, aac58 said:

I use a 1,2 mm phillips screwdriver from a very cheap chinese set and it works just fine for that screw. A 1.0 mm will likely work too.

The original post was about a stripped screw ,the method shown above allows you to work the screwdriver with the sandpaper so that you ca get traction on a stripped screw ,Maybe I should of made myself clearer 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, jdm said:

I think you misunderstood the scope of my comment. I have no quibble about that detail, but expressed my general opinion about the 7S26 articles by Mr. Hacko.

Again to help the OP, without even leaving this forum there is plenty of detailed photographic information on  the very popular mov't.

 

I agree with you Mr jdm I was just showing the op a way of shaping the screwdriver to undo a stripped date plate screw that will allow traction enough to undo the screw ,most of the time it works .Thanks

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

Reading the following on the SEIKO DIY site Graziano linked to was a bit of a turn off:

"If you are just an amateur horologist or hobbyist, then it is highly unethical, unprofessional and most likely illegal to repair other people's watches - even if they want you to do so."

Being exactly that, "just a hobbyist", it feels like a pretty condescending statement, especially as it's given without any kind of explanation.

Anyway, I really enjoyed how thoroughly he goes through what the various SEIKO numbers mean, and I'm sure I'll have more to learn from that site, so much appreciated Graziano. I'll consider it a complement to @Mark's excellent 7s26 videos on his YT channel.

Hi VWatchie , thank you for your comments but don't take it to heart I'm sure that some of the remarks that are written there are only there to protect their own investment and for legal reasons .I agree with you Mr VWatchie that Marks videos are far more informative and he has respect for the hobbiest . Thanks

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you to everyone. @Graziano provided a great way to remove the stripped screw. I appreciate @VWatchie link to the specific Seiko driver. I am also grateful for the attention to detail and professional guidance everyone provides. As a beginner, I want to do repairs well and properly. I am following @Mark’s 7S26 closely for this repair. I’ve found myself searching for the same watches he repairs and records in order to learn.

Again, thank you, everyone.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, sjhilbel said:

Thank you to everyone. @Graziano provided a great way to remove the stripped screw. I appreciate @VWatchie link to the specific Seiko driver. I am also grateful for the attention to detail and professional guidance everyone provides. As a beginner, I want to do repairs well and properly. I am following @Mark’s 7S26 closely for this repair. I’ve found myself searching for the same watches he repairs and records in order to learn.

Again, thank you, everyone.

That's awesome :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I just realized I never gave an update on this.

I tried a number of other methods. The only method that worked was getting a watch screw extractor on eBay. It was cheap and did the trick! I was able to remove it and proceed with the movement disassembly. However, when reassembling I noticed the Day-date corrector meeting wheel spokes didn't look symmetrical. I picked it up and a tooth breaks off! :angry:

So now I'm in search for Seiko 5 7S26B parts. Outside of eBay, the sources are very scarce due to COVID-19.

To add insult to injury, my next project watch (a Volstok) is stuck in NY either in customs or USPS.

May all of you projects be going well and stay safe!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, sjhilbel said:

However, when reassembling I noticed the Day-date corrector meeting wheel spokes didn't look symmetrical. I picked it up and a tooth breaks off! :angry:
So now I'm in search for Seiko 5 7S26B parts. Outside of eBay, the sources are very scarce due to COVID-19.

The 737.183 corrector is available from Cousins UK although relatively expensive, and is the same across all version of 7S, 4R, and their SII counterparts.. Ebay is alway the best source of donor watches or mov't which will give you more parts for future repairs.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, sjhilbel said:

To add insult to injury, my next project watch (a Volstok) is stuck in NY either in customs or USPS.

I don't get it. I ordered an Alpha watch from Lithuania -- a Panerai homage that uses the Seagull ST1901 chronograph movement that Mark is using in his upcoming complications lessons -- and it took almost 10 days to get through the NY/NJ USPS customs. And that was before COVID-19 was a thing. And, in transit the thing must have been dropped because it was damaged on arrival. Tomas from Alpha was kind enough to replace it and it took only 6 days to get from Pennsylvania to Lithuania on the return trip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I GOT MY WATCH! Yesterday, the tracking said it was still in NY. I checked the tracking today and suddenly it was in my town, out for delivery!

The watch is a Vostok Komandirskie with a 2414A. Now off to find the illusive Votstok watch repair guides!

I did check for the Seiko corrector wheel on Cousins. For just that wheel and shipping, it would cost $10. I might as well by another repairable Seiko for $30 and have that many more parts! :biggrin:

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, sjhilbel said:

The watch is a Vostok Komandirskie with a 2414A. Now off to find the illusive Votstok watch repair guides!

Congrats! :thumbsu:

You might find my Vostok 2409 Picture Service Walkthrough useful. The only difference between the 2409 and the 2414 calibres is the very uncomplicated calendar complication which I've documented in this post. Good luck!

EDIT: You might enjoy this guide.

Edited by VWatchie
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
    • Typically for introductions all you would have to say is hi I am interested in repairing watches and nobody's going to care about the technical details. Then to certain degree the introductions are not life or death in some cases I guess it depends upon what you did when you came to the discussion group. It's good that you're getting a balance complete for variety of reasons and getting a bonus balance bridge. Because I want you to pay attention to something when you get it as your hairspring still has a problem quite an amusing problem in a way. You notice your hairspring stud is a triangle or shape and it fits into a triangular shaped hole. It also notice how your hairspring has some weird bending right around the stud? So when you get your new balance bridge and the balance complete if you look carefully you'll find that I'm pretty sure the stud will be rotated and that they hairspring will come out the end not the way it's coming here you have managed to twist the stud putting it into the hole and that's why it looks so bad in the previous image. If you are skilled at fixing hairsprings which are not you can fix this. On the other hand are getting replacement so that's good. No it's supposed to be straight up and down. So in addition to twisting the stud you also bent it. On the other hand this is the most common place where people like to bend their hairspring and yes if you had practice with bending hairsprings this is all relatively sort of easy to fix. But I would really suggest practicing on another watch or basically scrap of balance wheels off of eBay that nobody cares about. Because practicing on something you care about really isn't the best. Then the reason I wanted the image below was to see how the balance jewel assembly is attached to the bridge. Sometimes it needed jeweling tool to push it out but in this particular case all you have to do is remove the U-shaped clip in the whole thing falls apart. But if you're lucky here replacement balance bridge will solve the problem.
    • I still need to see the complete movement as there are many types of Elgin movements. The part that you are holding is called a snail. 
×
×
  • Create New...