Jump to content

Seiko 5 7S26B... sigh


Recommended Posts

My latest project is a Seiko 5 with a 7S26B. First, I could tell this was going to be a real fixer upper when the pallet fork stuck to the bridge from too much oil. I now have to find out what size screwdriver to use on the one sole phillips/cross screw under the calendar wheel. However, after looking closer at it, it is stripped.

So, I need to know what size screwdriver to get for this one solitary screw and what to do with a stripped screw.

Thank you for you help on advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 screws (3x A type and 1x B type). First we will unscrew one B type screw, part number 0016 705. It is a phillips head screw. (Another unorthodox component!). To be able to remove this screw, we would have to make a tool - a "half phillips head screwdriver". :-)

 

Seiko 7s26 diy disassembly - date indicator maintaining plate

Place a sheet of medium coarse (400 or 600 grade) sand paper on to a flat surface and shape the blade of your smallest size screwdriver (40 or 60 / 0.40 or 0.60mm) as per photo.

 

Seiko DIY 7S26 - 40 or 60 screwdriver

DIY Seiko 7S26 - 0.40mm or 0.60mm screwdriver

Seiko 7S26 Date Plate screw A

Seiko Date Plate screw A

Seiko 7S26 Date Plate

Seiko Date Plate screw A

Hi there hope this helps. Hopefully you will get enough traction to remove the screw.....:)

 

Edited by Graziano
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, sjhilbel said:

Graziano, this is great! I’ve been search for this special screwdriver all day, when I could have been making my own. I’m still a watch repair noob so I’m still learning these tricks. Thank you!

All good take care 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a nifty trick @Graziano and the illustrations are just brilliant! Thank you! Anyway, Cousinsuk.com have this SEIKO S-921 screwdriver in case you don't want to make your own tool.

Did you make your illustrations to answer this question in particular or are your pictures from a walkthrough? In the latter case could you provide a link?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

That's a nifty trick @Graziano and the illustrations are just brilliant! Thank you! Anyway, Cousinsuk.com have this SEIKO S-921 screwdriver in case you don't want to make your own tool.

Did you make your illustrations to answer this question in particular or are your pictures from a walkthrough? In the latter case could you provide a link?

 

This is great info enjoy https://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Graziano said:

With all the due respect, I do not agree that the above is that great, or even that should be given as an example all the time.
For one, is incomplete, ending with train is placed together. And some practices are debatable, for example the one of opening the barrel and fitting the mainspring without a winder.
I recommend the OP to look instead at the video below by hour Host Mark Lovick. He also made some more about the same mov't. Even better would be to enroll in his training,

watchrepairlessons.com

 

 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, jdm said:

With all the due respect, I do not agree that the above is that great, or even that should be given as an example. For one, is incomplete, ending even with the train is placed together. The, some practices are debatable, for example the one of opening the barrel and fitting the mainspring without a winder. I recommend the OP to look instead at the video below by hour Host Mark Lovick. He also made some more abput the sam mov't. Even better would be to enroll in training, watchrepairlessons.com

 

The original post was about the screw driver required for 0016 705 screw ,this method of filing down works for burred screws as you can work the screwdriver to fit the stripped head enough to get traction in most cases works for me ,enjoy I don't see your problem :jig:

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reading the following on the SEIKO DIY site Graziano linked to was a bit of a turn off:

"If you are just an amateur horologist or hobbyist, then it is highly unethical, unprofessional and most likely illegal to repair other people's watches - even if they want you to do so."

Being exactly that, "just a hobbyist", it feels like a pretty condescending statement, especially as it's given without any kind of explanation.

Anyway, I really enjoyed how thoroughly he goes through what the various SEIKO numbers mean, and I'm sure I'll have more to learn from that site, so much appreciated Graziano. I'll consider it a complement to @Mark's excellent 7s26 videos on his YT channel.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Graziano said:

The original post was about the screw driver required for 0016 705 screw

I think you misunderstood the scope of my comment. I have no quibble about that detail, but expressed my general opinion about the 7S26 articles by Mr. Hacko.

Again to help the OP, without even leaving this forum there is plenty of detailed photographic information on  the very popular mov't.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, aac58 said:

I use a 1,2 mm phillips screwdriver from a very cheap chinese set and it works just fine for that screw. A 1.0 mm will likely work too.

The original post was about a stripped screw ,the method shown above allows you to work the screwdriver with the sandpaper so that you ca get traction on a stripped screw ,Maybe I should of made myself clearer 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, jdm said:

I think you misunderstood the scope of my comment. I have no quibble about that detail, but expressed my general opinion about the 7S26 articles by Mr. Hacko.

Again to help the OP, without even leaving this forum there is plenty of detailed photographic information on  the very popular mov't.

 

I agree with you Mr jdm I was just showing the op a way of shaping the screwdriver to undo a stripped date plate screw that will allow traction enough to undo the screw ,most of the time it works .Thanks

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

Reading the following on the SEIKO DIY site Graziano linked to was a bit of a turn off:

"If you are just an amateur horologist or hobbyist, then it is highly unethical, unprofessional and most likely illegal to repair other people's watches - even if they want you to do so."

Being exactly that, "just a hobbyist", it feels like a pretty condescending statement, especially as it's given without any kind of explanation.

Anyway, I really enjoyed how thoroughly he goes through what the various SEIKO numbers mean, and I'm sure I'll have more to learn from that site, so much appreciated Graziano. I'll consider it a complement to @Mark's excellent 7s26 videos on his YT channel.

Hi VWatchie , thank you for your comments but don't take it to heart I'm sure that some of the remarks that are written there are only there to protect their own investment and for legal reasons .I agree with you Mr VWatchie that Marks videos are far more informative and he has respect for the hobbiest . Thanks

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you to everyone. @Graziano provided a great way to remove the stripped screw. I appreciate @VWatchie link to the specific Seiko driver. I am also grateful for the attention to detail and professional guidance everyone provides. As a beginner, I want to do repairs well and properly. I am following @Mark’s 7S26 closely for this repair. I’ve found myself searching for the same watches he repairs and records in order to learn.

Again, thank you, everyone.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, sjhilbel said:

Thank you to everyone. @Graziano provided a great way to remove the stripped screw. I appreciate @VWatchie link to the specific Seiko driver. I am also grateful for the attention to detail and professional guidance everyone provides. As a beginner, I want to do repairs well and properly. I am following @Mark’s 7S26 closely for this repair. I’ve found myself searching for the same watches he repairs and records in order to learn.

Again, thank you, everyone.

That's awesome :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I just realized I never gave an update on this.

I tried a number of other methods. The only method that worked was getting a watch screw extractor on eBay. It was cheap and did the trick! I was able to remove it and proceed with the movement disassembly. However, when reassembling I noticed the Day-date corrector meeting wheel spokes didn't look symmetrical. I picked it up and a tooth breaks off! :angry:

So now I'm in search for Seiko 5 7S26B parts. Outside of eBay, the sources are very scarce due to COVID-19.

To add insult to injury, my next project watch (a Volstok) is stuck in NY either in customs or USPS.

May all of you projects be going well and stay safe!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, sjhilbel said:

However, when reassembling I noticed the Day-date corrector meeting wheel spokes didn't look symmetrical. I picked it up and a tooth breaks off! :angry:
So now I'm in search for Seiko 5 7S26B parts. Outside of eBay, the sources are very scarce due to COVID-19.

The 737.183 corrector is available from Cousins UK although relatively expensive, and is the same across all version of 7S, 4R, and their SII counterparts.. Ebay is alway the best source of donor watches or mov't which will give you more parts for future repairs.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, sjhilbel said:

To add insult to injury, my next project watch (a Volstok) is stuck in NY either in customs or USPS.

I don't get it. I ordered an Alpha watch from Lithuania -- a Panerai homage that uses the Seagull ST1901 chronograph movement that Mark is using in his upcoming complications lessons -- and it took almost 10 days to get through the NY/NJ USPS customs. And that was before COVID-19 was a thing. And, in transit the thing must have been dropped because it was damaged on arrival. Tomas from Alpha was kind enough to replace it and it took only 6 days to get from Pennsylvania to Lithuania on the return trip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I GOT MY WATCH! Yesterday, the tracking said it was still in NY. I checked the tracking today and suddenly it was in my town, out for delivery!

The watch is a Vostok Komandirskie with a 2414A. Now off to find the illusive Votstok watch repair guides!

I did check for the Seiko corrector wheel on Cousins. For just that wheel and shipping, it would cost $10. I might as well by another repairable Seiko for $30 and have that many more parts! :biggrin:

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, sjhilbel said:

The watch is a Vostok Komandirskie with a 2414A. Now off to find the illusive Votstok watch repair guides!

Congrats! :thumbsu:

You might find my Vostok 2409 Picture Service Walkthrough useful. The only difference between the 2409 and the 2414 calibres is the very uncomplicated calendar complication which I've documented in this post. Good luck!

EDIT: You might enjoy this guide.

Edited by VWatchie
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
×
×
  • Create New...