Jump to content

ETA 2783 Canon Pinion adjustment


Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me if there is any special procedure for tightening or loosening the canon pinion on an ETA 2783 please? At present it is very tight. Yes I could ream it out a little but if I do it too much how do I tighten it again as it doesnt appear to have the usual crimp marks? In fact its not crushable.

Many thanks

P1010029.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, chrisdt said:

Yes I could ream it out a little but if I do it too much how do I tighten it again as it doesnt appear to have the usual crimp marks? In fact its not crushable.

Do not ream it out. The reason that there are no crimp marks is because the friction coupling in this set up is not via a crimp that grips the center wheel pinion, but via those two parallel spokes in the wheel that is attached to the bottom of the cannon pinion which run in a groove in the cannon pinion, gripping it to provide the friction coupling.

A touch of D5 or HP1300 in the coupling groove should help. It's also worth making sure that it is really clean first as an accumulation of old dried oil in the groove could be gluing things up.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...