Jump to content

Recommended Posts

As far as I can ascertain both Ronsonal & Essence of Renata are basically the same, it just that the former can be bought cheaper & in bulk from fleabay. As for Ronsonal or similar having any affect on shellac I have yet to see it, having left pallet forks in the stuff for a week or more, then blasted in the ultrasonic without any ill effects......yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I can ascertain both Ronsonal & Essence of Renata are basically the same, it just that the former can be bought cheaper & in bulk from fleabay. As for Ronsonal or similar having any affect on shellac I have yet to see it, having left pallet forks in the stuff for a week or more, then blasted in the ultrasonic without any ill effects......yet.

 

Yes, Ronsonal or lighter fluid will not attack shellac. Alcohol, however, will dissolve shellac and should be avoided on pallets and roller jewels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Afternoon Guys,

 

I have just purchased and Tissot with a 2824-2 that needs a refresh.

 

I have repaired 2 of the same movement before but this will be my 1st full strip and re build.

 

What's the best way of cleaning the parts either by hand or ultrasonic?

 

do I need specialist chemicals? bear in mind I wont be doing this all the time :)

 

list of parts would be appreciated.

 

Many thanks

James.

 

post-1206-0-56116000-1439987291_thumb.jp

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the movement is an ETA 2836-2. If so the strip down and drawings can be found on the ETA web site. It looks like the movement has had water ingress so a complete strip down,clean reassembly & lubrication will be required.

Agree with CB that acctually looks like a ETA 2836-2 movement . Tissot only has 21 jewels and has a different rotor .

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ginger, the 2.5x magnification should be fine for stripping and assembly, although being old and blind I tend to use a 3.5x. The 8" means you will have roughly 8" of space to work between the visor and movement.

If you are just starting off, I would recommend using Ronsol or Zippo lighter fuel and a small brush to clean the parts. An ultrasonic tank would be a lot better, but I would hold back on that and proprietary cleaners until you find out how keen you are going to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ginger, the 2.5x magnification should be fine for stripping and assembly, although being old and blind I tend to use a 3.5x. The 8" means you will have roughly 8" of space to work between the visor and movement.

If you are just starting off, I would recommend using Ronsol or Zippo lighter fuel and a small brush to clean the parts. An ultrasonic tank would be a lot better, but I would hold back on that and proprietary cleaners until you find out how keen you are going to be.

Excellent. I guessed as much on the 8".

Good tip about the lighter fluid :) thanks.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, I'm looking for watch cleaning fluids, I've not used any before! So I'm looking types & makes of fluids, I've not got a ultrasonic machine yet, so I'll be cleaning parts by hand in glass jars....... Cheers!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by bosstaki
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I've been absent of late due to decorating to keep the wife happy. But I'd like to discuss a conversation I had with a friend who is the technical manager for a leading Swiss watch manufacturer. I asked him what he felt was the best degreaser to buy at present. He said" without question & nothing can compare, isopropanol which is available from the chemist. I was surprised to hear that they also use it in the final rinse pot during cleaning". He said you can't leave the lid off as it evaporates. He said it's ideal for the last rinse because of this fact.

Has anybody else used this product. I've just order 5ltr off amazon for £15,so pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

I wash the parts in neophaline (benzine) but after that the parts sometimes have a thin layer of grease on them. For that I use isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).

But be very careful - the alcohol dissolves the shellac so don't use it on the pallets and the balance wheel.

 

Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

I wash the parts in neophaline (benzine) but after that the parts sometimes have a thin layer of grease on them. For that I use isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).

But be very careful - the alcohol dissolves the shellac so don't use it on the pallets and the balance wheel.

Bogdan

Glad you told me that, I was going to drop the whole balance assembly in to degrease the hairspring.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too use it as a final rinse when using water based cleaners in my ultrasonic cleaner, not for it's de-greasing qualities, but being alcohol it absorbs any residual moisture and aids drying.

Heed Bogdan's advice and never put anything with shellac in alcohol.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean the balance and hairspring mounted on the main plate. I rinse off the cleaner by submerging the plate in a basin of water at 50 degrees centigrade for about ten seconds, then blow off the excess water with a puffer. The plate is then placed in a container with alcohol and agitated with the puffer for about thirty seconds. I then remove the plate and place the plate onto a folded piece of kitchen roll to absorb the majority of the alcohol and gently use the puffer to blow air on the balance until it starts to swing correctly. At this point I remove the balance from the plate and store it separately until assembly. It is only at the point of assembly that I remove the balance jewels and clean them separately in lighter fuel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean the balance and hairspring mounted on the main plate. I rinse off the cleaner by submerging the plate in a basin of water at 50 degrees centigrade for about ten seconds, then blow off the excess water with a puffer. The plate is then placed in a container with alcohol and agitated with the puffer for about thirty seconds. I then remove the plate and place the plate onto a folded piece of kitchen roll to absorb the majority of the alcohol and gently use the puffer to blow air on the balance until it starts to swing correctly. At this point I remove the balance from the plate and store it separately until assembly. It is only at the point of assembly that I remove the balance jewels and clean them separately in lighter fuel.

Thanks for the detailed steps Geo, I assumed that would be the way to go, leaving the balance on the mainplate etc.. Just got confused, as Bogdan suggested not to clean the balance in alcohol.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do not soak the balance for any great length of time if you will could have a problem with the roller jewel. That's why I say to dip it only for seconds before puffing it dry.

PS I have been doing this for years when cleaning parts in the ultrasonic tank and have never had a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
    • I did in fact use Rodico to get the spring into general position and "hold" it there while I used a fine oiler to make subtle positional adjustments.
×
×
  • Create New...