Jump to content

Putting in shock springs


vext01

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've been fiddling with watches for a couple of months now and I'm starting to build confidence in taking them apart and reassembling. However, the one task I consistently struggle with is putting back the springs on shock jewels -- the ones with three prongs extending from a central circle.

I find manoeuvring the prongs under the lip under tension to be really difficult. I'm using two pairs of sharp tweezers head-mounted magnification. Usually the spring pings off when I'm trying to insert the final prong into the groove.

So I was wondering if the fine folks here have any tips? Perhaps there's a three-pronged tool for this? If so, what's it called? How is it done at the factory?

I saw a youtube video where someone made a tool out of pegwood, a bit like a smaller version of a hand-pusher. I tried to emulate this, but found that my pegwood splits when I try to hollow out the centre.

In case it makes any difference, I've been practising using Vostok 2124a movements on account of them being very cheap to source.

Thanks!

 

Edited by vext01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi everyone,

The tool arrived!

I get the impression it's supposed to be mounted into something (like a screwdriver handle). Is that right? What would I use?

I did manage to use the tool without, but my goodness, it was hard!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

What does yours look like?

It's the tool sold by cousins linked above.

image.png.d5395777a0bea1589ba5676de7f4e7dd.png

 

You don't get a sense of scale from the picture. They are about the size of a small drill bit. Quite hard to grip by hand. I think they are supposed to be mounted into something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, vext01 said:

It's the tool sold by cousins linked above.

image.png.d5395777a0bea1589ba5676de7f4e7dd.png

 

You don't get a sense of scale from the picture. They are about the size of a small drill bit. Quite hard to grip by hand. I think they are supposed to be mounted into something.

Mount on a pin vice, otherwise called stem holder tool. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya you can get them as low as $4. Also remove roller table with it, stems to file the end to shape, many use, 

Check Amazon, Alibaba, eslinger  it is general tool.

Edited by Nucejoe
Removes Canon pinion too.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fought with one of those "Trishock" type springs for a while. I think part of my difficulty was that the replacement jewel I got was sized for an Incabloc, not Trishock. It was larger, so was putting too much tension to the spring. Once I got a parts movement that was likely to have the right jewel, I used it and had less of a problem. But it was still a bear to get the three prongs set into the setting. I used a piece of pegwood to hold the jewel (oh-so-lightly) while I spun the prongs into the setting with my 3C tweezers. It was very difficult and at times I believed impossible. I was suprised when I finally got it.

If that KIF tool works for the Trishocks I may have to purchase it. I just wasn't sure it would. And I haven't found any branded Trishock tools. Congratulations for getting the shock spring set. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

If that KIF tool works for the Trishocks I may have to purchase it.

The benefit of the tool seems to be that it both secures (preventing "ping" moments) and turns the spring in a one-handed tool.

But as I say I can't fully vouch for it until I get a pin vice. I also don't want to remove another spring unless I really need to. They are a total pain and a  source of almost endless frustration :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get many uses out of a pin vice, I may have shown some. I think I post em again or its further uses.

I mount a defective hr gear on pin vice, to push hairsprings home with on balance staffs 

Pull Canon pinion out with it.

Remove roller table off of balance staff.

Mount small rotors brush on vice pin, put the vice pin in a drill. You can use it to polish watch crystal or glass. I will post some pix soon, have a better camera .

The benefit from kif trio tool you bought is to get the task done without inflicting damage to the spring. Little shock spring tend to get damaged by even a sewing needle.

A shock spring is suppose to respond to shocks, in the event of a shock, a defective spring  may jump out of the assembly before doing any good.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
×
×
  • Create New...