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    • Okay... thanks... I wanted to check before I did something I might regret.  It appears to be metal, but who knows.
    • I'd say good job so far as I don't see any finger prints on this beautiful dial and it be shame if you end up having to remove it to access the keyless, you see sometimes the stem doesn't want to engage and lock onto the keyless mech (even if you had observed the proper proceedure for pulling  the stem out ) Surely you know, the set lever screw is only to be loosened about one to one and half turns, as it might release the set lever if you loosen it more. Push on the set lever screw as you insert the new stem in and ( turn the stem a little as you are inserting the stem)  then tighten the screw, next pull the stem outwards to the SET TIME POSITION , you will by then know if the stem has engaged and locked onto the keyless or not.  If it hasn't, pull the stem outwards before loosening the little screw, this will set/ leave  the keyless in The SET TIME position, then loosen the screw and pull the stem out to retry inserting the stem. Hope I am clear to understand and this helps.  Rgds  
    • Congratulations on your grail tool @Neverenoughwatches not something I think I want to get into Rich but a fine ambition to have.   Tom
    • Everyone, I am looking for a source of dial screws preferably in the US. The screws should have a thread diameter from 0.5 to 1.2 mm and a length of 1.5 to 2.5 mm. I'd prefer headless screws  but I'll take what I can get. BTW, the screws are for a Lorsa P75 movement. I tried Cousins UK but their website does not want to let me add anything to my basket (odd). Any help is appreciated. Thanks, MikeCJ
    • Eyup watch peeps, i may be using up my quota for posts this week but i just have to add this one. Out of the myriad of watch faults that have us beginners confused and halted on projects for various reasons. There has always been 3 main ones that stood out for me. These seemed to be the 3 most common issues with watches that i bought from Ebay when i started. My goal since has been to aquire the tools to solve these main problems. No.1 broken pivots on a balance staff. For this we need a new staff and the tools to swap the old broken staff for a nice shiny new one. The most important tool for this would be a staking tool and its staking set, to tap out the broken one and then rivet the new staff to the balance wheel ( actually not as easy as it sounds ).  This i aquired fairly quickly within 2 months of starting. But what if a replacement staff is not available, what then ? Then we have to make one ( for me this is where the true title of a watchmaker is, the actual making of parts rather than the replacement of them ) for that we need some small hard round steel, a lathe, some gravers to cut that steel aannnnd a shed load of patience and skill ( that will come in time, however long it takes is anyone's guess ).The lathe was the next on my list 👍. Job sorted one Wolf Jahn lathe with lots of bits to play with. In steps fault No. 2 a broken or missing winding stem. I overlooked plenty of good watches that had a stem missing in fear of not finding a nos. one or having to buy a donor movement to supply what could be a damaged one. This then possibly doubling the cost of your initial purchase. The lathe now lends itself to another purpose along with another skill for you to learn ( hell if you can turn and finish a staff that works then you can surely make a stem ) . And finally No 3 watch fault on my list, the infamous damaged or missing hairspring. Surprisingly enough I've found the hairspring quite repairable even in some very sorry states. Not so much a very old non alloy type, just looking at an old one they can fall apart. So again if its beyond repair or missing we are in need of a donor, 🤔 not just a hairspring but the full balance assembly to be sure that everything there matches up and works correctly so more money again. And If its a quality movement then that could be very costly. Our alternative solution here, a raw untimed hairspring  and the tool used to help make it dance to the correct frequency required for the movement. So possibly the most expensive tool needed here and the most skill required to install ( time, cut, shape and pin accurately to the collet and the stud ) the hairspring once its active length is found. What used to be part of the great Smiths watch company is now British Precision Springs Ltd, possibly the only supplier of hairsprings to the general public. Apparently not an easy company to deal with, you need to know your stuff and what you want. Aquiring Help is rather challenging, so plenty of research is needed to figure out your needs and probably even more luck with a sprinkling of trial and error ( but hey who ever said watchmaking is easy🤔 actually nobody did ) . And then we have the tool. A hairspring vibrator also sometimes called a Luthy ( not sure if that is a brand name or the inventor, if someone would like to comment then feel free ). There are a few different types ranging from simple to all singing and all dancing. The one i have just bought is somewhere in the middle. The general gist of use is once the hairspring is attached to the balance wheel it is then held directly above another balance that has been accurately timed to a specific frequency. The two balances are separated by a piece of glass so that both are visible. The balance to be timed is lightly rested on its bottom pivot just touching the glass, and its balance wheel arms aligned with those of the regulated ( template ) balance. The two balances are then set in motion by rotating the Luthy a few times. The watchmaker then observes the two balances for synchronisation. The balance to be timed may be slower than the template in which case the point of holding ( the hairspring's active length ) is moved away from where the  stud would eventually be pinned thereby shortening it active length and increasing its timing . If the balance to be timed is faster than the template then the opposite and the point of holding is moved closer to the eventual stud point to slow the balance. Once  the correct active length is found to make both balances oscillate in harmony then a little extra length is  added to the hairspring to accommodate the stud and also give some regulation tolerance.  The active length ideally should be midway on its terminal curve to allow for some accurate regulation without the regulator reaching either the far end of slow or fast. One point to note is that the Luthy's balance has a set frequency commonly 18,000 which may or may not match the movement you are working on. I haven't got as far as finding out how to change the balance out yet for a different one. Theres actually a lot more to it than that but i think I've more than achieved my longest post ever.  Heres my new toy. Enjoy x
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