Jump to content

Slow moving escape wheel


Recommended Posts

When I pulled this little omega 484 down I noticed that the escape wheel was turning under duress so I thought I would show how I polish these tiny pivots on the escape wheel and pallet folk before I ultrasonically clean them. It gets a nice shine, I can do my hair in the reflection. Using a very fine pin polisher 

IMG_20200226_170942.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

What abrasives do you use?  Any compound?

Would this taper the edges of pivot head?  

 

 

No it doesn't taper the edges, in fact you can also polish the pinion shoulders at the same time. No abrasives used as such. Just a 3mm very fine pin polisher which I push over the pivot and gently rotate until shiny. I also do the balance wheel pivots. I do this before the ultrasonic wash it's a sure way of getting the pivots in optimal cleanliness. Hope this helps 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Is it possible to have a little more detail of the polisher you use, looks interesting.           Cheers

https://www.eternaltools.com/mini-rubber-silicone-pin-polishers watchweasol hi these are a must have , I only use the green ones as they are great for pivot polishing and remove no material  and when you combine this polishing with the burnishing of the pallet fork on vintage watches you can bring your amplitude up considerably , on any watch .Hope this helps 

 

Edited by Graziano
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I've been curious about these pin polishers for quite a while, so I ordered the following from CousinsUK:

XFineSoft.jpg.3fa854a69d1493fde5e3fb117a1086ec.jpg

FineSoft.jpg.07fd2ee602314bf75982f0b361e869c5.jpg

MediumMedium.jpg.7c9d317fd3e8a9fa544b255598ce90e8.jpgMandrel.jpg.76fd249d3fb13dfb229cce2be0cb8e33.jpg

In hindsight, I regret not ordering the two-millimetre versions instead as the polishers tend to hit the fingers/tweezers when rotated.

On 2/26/2020 at 2:27 PM, Nucejoe said:

Would this taper the edges of pivot head?

Yes, indeed, but it depends on the hardness and grit. The medium grit and medium hardness polisher will quickly taper the pivot so stay away from it. It's very aggressive.

I would say all you need is the extra fine grit and soft polisher. As far as I can tell it doesn't remove any material, except for perhaps a few microns. Of course, it also depends on how long you keep polishing.

Although I made no extensive tests with the fine grit and soft polisher I'd stay away from that too.

Just to make sure. Do not think that these polishers can be used to burnish/repair the pivot. A Jacot tool is required for that. However, for cleaning they are well suited.

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

I've been curious about these pin polishers for quite a while, so I ordered the following from CousinsUK:

XFineSoft.jpg.3fa854a69d1493fde5e3fb117a1086ec.jpg

FineSoft.jpg.07fd2ee602314bf75982f0b361e869c5.jpg

MediumMedium.jpg.7c9d317fd3e8a9fa544b255598ce90e8.jpgMandrel.jpg.76fd249d3fb13dfb229cce2be0cb8e33.jpg

In hindsight, I regret not ordering the two-millimetre versions instead as the polishers tend to hit the fingers/tweezers when rotated.

Yes, indeed, but it depends on the hardness and grit. The medium grit and medium hardness polisher will quickly taper the pivot so stay away from it. It's very aggressive.

I would say all you need is the extra fine grit and soft polisher. As far as I can tell it doesn't remove any material, except for perhaps a few microns. Of course, it also depends on how long you keep polishing.

Although I made no extensive tests with the fine grit and soft polisher I'd stay away from that too.

Just to make sure. Do not think that these polishers can be used to repair the pivot. A Jacot tool is required for that. However, for cleaning they are well suited.

Something else to add to my cousin's order list , i had considered them previously but your suggestion of size and limited grit usage has saved me a few quid . Thanks watchie. I wonder if use in a rotary cable would be overkill, the one i have is very small and can be reduced to a low rpm.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I wonder if use in a rotary cable would be overkill,

I think some tasks are more suited for the sensitive touche of hand work.  Power tools often help us make bad parts more efficiently.

I can't see how polishing doesn't remove at least some material,  Even as VWatchie says, it may be down in the microns.

These look very interesting.  Thanks for the heads up, I will definitely be ordering some.

I have just one question; Will these help in correcting mistakes within my correspondence?

Shane 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 8/21/2022 at 1:36 PM, Shane said:

I have just one question; Will these help in correcting mistakes within my correspondence?

I'm afraid not! 😄

Oh, and I do agree! Power tools should be used with great care in watch repair. I now have an excellent Proxxon rotary tool (fantastic!) but I limit its use to polishing watch cases. Power tools can make things go very wrong very fast.

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...