How to drown a watch movement in silicone oil
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I just can't beleive my luck. A landeron 48 chrono in working order for $10US or £7.83. Picked it out of a box at a swap meet this morning. Seemed gummed up and not working. Messing with it proceeded to drop it on the ground, lucky it hit my foot first and seems to have survived. Only has 2 lugs, but they are on the top of the watch case. Is plated brass so not sure if new lugs can be added or not. Here is what it looked like out of the box. Then I got it home and started messing with it and changed out the crystal and went through it. Appears to need just a servicing and case work. The best for last is the dial is pretty spectacular! No water damage. Anyone hear of Dorex? Is 33.8mm not including crown and pushers. -
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With all the good and valuable reading recommended here, I strongly support your spirit of continuing to practice and getting your hands dirty. Keep going! Just a little thing. The lift angle for ST36 should be 44 degrees. So the true amplitude is quite a bit lower. But still good. Does this mean you've never been lubricating your watches when assembling? If not, you should really focus on practicing that. Correct oils/grease, oiling points and quantities are a big and fundamental thing to learn. -
The dial I bought was this one. It is for the st3620. It seems to fit the movement and the dial feet and seconds subdial seem to be in the right place. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007923938823.html -
What diel did you get and is it specifically for the ST36**? -
Thanks, I'll look into this a bit further. For now, as I'm still waiting for a new mainspring, I started assembly with the keyless works. First, I still need to disassemble the canon pinion A scalpel slid between the parts and it came apart easily. Through the cleaning machine again.. Then 9504 on the shaft and a bit on the base Pushed together on a hard flat surface with hand setting pushers. The excess 9504, I'm removing with Rodico. Oiling posts with HP1300 (wider parts, top and bottom). Canon pinion and minute wheel need to go on at the same time. A bit fiddly. I add a tiny tiny drop of HP1300 on the elevated ring below the minute wheel (red arrow). More posts, HP1300. Note that the elevated ring on the plate has no purpose. The wheel goes on with the bigger side up. Remember that the rounded side goes downwards. Post for the rocking bar, HP1300, small amount, careful spread around the post. Oiling the riveted wheel on the rocking bar is a bit tricky. There's not enough space for even my smallest oiler to really get in-between... so I use a scalpel. A bit messy. Rodico for some cleaning. The three positions of the rocking bar. 1. Time setting, 2. Winding, 3. Setting the hour on the second time zone. Cover plate on. On now moving to the train side of the keyless works (interesting and unusual design). 9504 greasing of sliding/winding pinion and stem Positioning is straight forward 9504 also here. Distributing it by turning the stem. Lubricating edges of rocking bar and setting lever spring with 9504. Honestly, positioning the setting lever was very fiddly. I tried various positions of the rocking bar and I'm not sure which one finally worked.... Securing setting lever with screw and then the stop operating lever. Greasing (9504) the touching points with the hacking lever, then removing excess with fresh Rodico. Placing seat for yoke. Note that there's a top/bottom side. If it doesn't place easily, don't force it, just turn around. Carefully spreading 9504 around the hole of the yoke (since this doesn't turn 360°, I make the effort to spread it out). After positioning and securing the yoke, I also observe and grease the touching point between yoke and hacking lever. That concludes the keyless works.
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