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Tommy Hilfiger watch pusher


Facsi

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Hi. I have a Tommy Hilfiger watch that damaged the pusher a few months ago when it fell on the ground.

I opened the watch to try to fix the pusher because it is stuck in a pressed position. I tried pushing it back from the inside after removing the mechanism but it is very hard. I was going to try using a press to remove it but I don't know if the pusher is pressed or it is threaded.

The inside is just a pin with a circular lock.

How can I find this out?

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For a watch of that value I assume that it's pressed in. From my past experience the likely reason for the pusher holding in is that the shaft is bent and preventing it from move moving smoothly in the pusher housing. Before looking to replace the pusher, I would press the shaft from inside the watch case to reset the pusher position and then check the angle of the pusher head. The circlip could be removed to release it entirely for examining the bent shaft and straightening it. I've even left a pusher assembled and grasped the pusher button and straightened it. I'm currently wearing a Speedmaster automatic Day-date that I corrected this way and it didn't affect water resistance.
Good luck!

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

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  • 6 months later...

Thanks Lwayslate.

I saw your message back then. but I only could manage to remove it today. It was oxidized but all rust was removed.

Now the issue is the reason it was stuck: the housing for the button is just a little bent. Probably due to a fall. The button is perfect

What would be the best technique to unbent it? i can't think of any tools i have that would fit there.

Its stainless steel. So very hard...

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hi tudor.

doing so the button would be useless, as if i had not fixed it.

I used silicone spray to lubrificate the rubber. the other button is working better than before. I also have a habit to avoid watches come near to water :)

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    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
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