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Darrel22

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I have been interested in mechanical watch repair for sometime and I have done repairs on quartz watches and want to progress to mechanical , So apart from doing a lot of reading on them I want to get some hands on,  so I have been looking at pre owed ,ETA 6498-1 ,eta 2824 , Seiko 7S36 in good working order ,  anything under £60  if possible in working order to dismantle  and learn the parts,  I picked these watches because they also seems to be a lot of information online and on how to assemble them in case I get stuck .  So hopefully I am going about this the right way if not let me know ? I would also like some help on information on what produces to use to clean watch parts and what oils I should be buying when they need oiling ?

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1 minute ago, Darrel22 said:

 I would also like some help on information on what produces to use to clean watch parts and what oils I should be buying when they need oiling ?

Give a look to our pinned, comprehensive topics in this very same section

 

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Hi Darrel   you would be better served by buying some Russian movements in going order they go for a few pounds so you can get 3 or 4 to play with.  Wostok and Raketa to name but two there is plenty of information on these types .    If you have a disaster you have only ditched a pound or two.  The money saved spend on good class tools, loupe etc.  as for oils they are quite expensive on average  £30 for 2ml but as jdm advised read through the previous posts on the subject as every one has their own idea's on the subject.   all the best.

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
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