Jump to content

Watch keeps stopping (hairspring issue?)


SudoHalt

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

I have had a watch with the Chinese Standard Movement suddenly die on me over a year ago. The issue is, the watch abruptly dies in certain orientations, even with a full power reserve.

I decided to open it up today and try to figure out what's going on. Since I don't really care about that watch, the outcome doesn't matter to me, it would be interesting to "diagnose" the problem as a starter. Prior to today, the watch was never disassembled once and the watch has has never been through any unusual beating.

While my methods of disassembly and handling might be a problem on their own, the watch had a problem to start with. I have tried removing the balance bridge and putting it back into place, but to no avail. Interestingly, halfway through a very gentle unscrewing of the balance bridge screw, the head broke off from the threaded part. I have dealt with smaller screws in the past, but never this problem.

In one of my attempts to put the balance bridge back into place, I got it to seemingly work, but the amplitude was visibly terrible.
In another attempt, I tried my best to center the balance wheel, but if I screw the balance bridge completely, it stops. The end shake seems to be reasonable, though.

The rest of the watch seems to be in a pretty workable condition.

This makes me feel it's an issue with the hairspring. The tiny pivots of the balance wheel appear pretty well intact. One thing, I did notice though, is that the spring is somewhat distorted such that the balance wheel is off center.

Attached is a video to show the issue. This is just after I removed the caseback. All components untouched otherwise. The pictures are taken after the handling and everything.

May I know what do you think of it?

Balance Bridge with wheel 2.JPG

Balance Bridge with wheel.JPG

The Movement.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to detach the balance from the bridge to see exactly how bad the hairspring is, when it is still attached looks can be deceiving. The other thing I have spotted is someone has put two nicks on the bottom plate where the balance bridge sits and screwed down, this will affect the end shake to the balance and also the angle of the balance bridge.    

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got it! I am pretty sure my handling was a major contributor to this. But as I said earlier, the watch had an issue (likely with the hairspring) even before any handling. Could the hairspring really go bust even when the movement is cased? Something doesn't add up to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, SudoHalt said:

Am I understanding that it is possible to deform the hairspring like this without breaking the pivots of the balance wheel?

Absolutely, the hairspring is the most delicate thing in the watch- when it comes to manipulation.

 

It's unlikely that the hairspring was like that before you removed the balance cock. It simply wouldn't have run. It can't get like that from a drop or even being thrown from a rooftop.

 

As I understand it, the Chinese movements often leave the factory unlubricated and even with manufacturing debris present. This was probably the cause of stopping.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pivot must be out of jewel hole in the first picture. Let us see a top view of the coil with pivot in jewel hole.

Looks repairable specially if the collet is removable. 

Next you may need to detatch the balance complete from the cock. Lets see the coil then.

As for the broken screw, check if any of it sticks out the other end, else you will need some alum.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

Absolutely, the hairspring is the most delicate thing in the watch- when it comes to manipulation.

 

It's unlikely that the hairspring was like that before you removed the balance cock. It simply wouldn't have run. It can't get like that from a drop or even being thrown from a rooftop.

 

As I understand it, the Chinese movements often leave the factory unlubricated and even with manufacturing debris present. This was probably the cause of stopping.

You actually are right, I just found a picture before I touched anything and the hairspring looked decent. It was not an ingenious idea to practice using tweezers on the balance bridge, but I am glad I could handle it better by the end. Nonetheless, it was intended as a practice watch anyway. That hairspring looks to be beyond repair now.

Having now seen the original state of the hairspring, I am actually confused. The watch was running flawlessly for over a year but then one day it died on me. What could have caused this? The thing is it appears to me that the pallet fork moves pretty freely.

@Nucejoe I guess the second picture is what you'd be looking for. I kinda feel ashamed to be here. :(

 

 

 

20200218_120215.jpg

DSC_0899.JPG

Edited by SudoHalt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put some penetrating oil on the stud screw and top of the stud as well as the boot, let soak over night, if needed soak longer to remove balance complete. Oil around the jewel housing too.

Dismantle the cock, remove the regulator arm and stud career. Remove the jewel housing, shock spring go in lighter fluid.

Show a picture of the coil while on balance wheel. 

Except balance complete, balance jewels, the rest takes a 24 hr bath in Cocacola ( I mean the entire movement).

  Other screws that have enjoyed the coke bath will unscrew real easy. brush all with tooth brush use powder laundrey detergent. 

Gears and pinions take a half hr bath in vinager and get rinsed and brushed under tap water, use powder detergent. Important to time the vinegar bath, no longer than thirty mins.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After going through the wheels in the barrel bridge, I figured out what was the culprit in making the watch stop in some different orientations when the hairspring was still in pristine condition. The wheel which moves the minute hand (maybe) turned out to have a broken pivot. When in the right orientation, it doesn't jam and engages with the center wheel.

In the right orientation, it still has enough torque to drive the faster center wheel, but not as much as an intact wheel. I therefore believe the broken pivot is what made made it go at a much lower amplitude. Interestingly, the barrel wheel kept that broken wheel loosely pushed against the top jewel, which is why the wheel was never completely knocked outside its place and could still be put back in place by placing the watch in another orientation.

I might have done very stupid things to the mainspring, but I am happy that I am learning quite a bit on other things too. It's pleasantly intriguing.

Do you think there is anything I got wrong? I have attached the pictures of the broken pivot in jewel on the mainplate, and that of the wheel. Sorry if the mainplate is too painful to look at. xD

That pivot was absolutely minuscule! I really think I need to get some amateur loupe.

 

20200223_114710.jpg

20200223_114749.jpg

20200223_115027.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...