Jump to content

weishi


gary17

Recommended Posts

hey

i have just started using the weishi and im struggling on a read out on a old everite watch.

The pics below show consecutive screens.

I am presuming its beyond help unless someone know something i am missing.

I have moved the adjustment timer on the balance and it does not seem to make a difference.

cheers

gary

IMG_20200217_195242.jpg

IMG_20200217_195325.jpg

IMG_20200217_195403.jpg

IMG_20200217_195442.jpg

IMG_20200217_195520.jpg

IMG_20200217_195600.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, gary17 said:

I have just started using the weishi and im struggling on a read out on a old everite watch

The instrument is doing his job correctly, telling you this piece at the minimum needs a complete, accurate service.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, gary17 said:

hey

i have just started using the weishi and im struggling on a read out on a old everite watch.

The pics below show consecutive screens.

I am presuming its beyond help unless someone know something i am missing.

I have moved the adjustment timer on the balance and it does not seem to make a difference.

cheers

gary

IMG_20200217_195242.jpg

IMG_20200217_195325.jpg

IMG_20200217_195403.jpg

IMG_20200217_195442.jpg

IMG_20200217_195520.jpg

IMG_20200217_195600.jpg

You are not the only one struggling to interprit tg graphes.  

Edited by Nucejoe
Poor amplitude, fluctuating daily rate, it is not running happy.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary I am afraid there is no point putting a duff watch on the machine when trying to understand it. Out a watch on that you know its characteristics and that it is a good one that way you know the machine works and you know what you are looking at. So once having acertained how it works and able to analyse its out put then introduce a watch like the everite and analyse its out put according to the instructions. Its a new toy and will take a little time to understand.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well you have a range of -102 to +3 seconds/day and I would say that the 'adjustment timer' (more correct term is regulator) is working fine.

If you're expecting a nice clean trace, that will only come with a strip-down, inspection and assembly with correct oil in correct amounts. There are no shortcuts.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, StuartBaker104 said:

Assuming that the watch is nearly fully wound and you've set the lift angle correctly for this movement then the amplitude

Worth to remind that even without bothering to set lift angle, or having a "large" discrepancy of 5°, the amplitude value is not greatly affected and will be accurate enough for making a go/no to call.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Besides the obvious lack of amplitude, I think an important thing to check is to see if stud is loose in stud carrier. Other things to look out for are loose index pin and boot, index, harispring either at collet or stud end, shock assemblies, as well as condition of the pivots. 

Edited by CaptCalvin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/18/2020 at 6:50 PM, CaptCalvin said:

Besides the obvious lack of amplitude, I think an important thing to check is to see if stud is loose in stud carrier. Other things to look out for are loose index pin and boot, index, harispring either at collet or stud end, shock assemblies, as well as condition of the pivots. 

I'd think anything loose there would show an irregular beat error (spacing between the lines).  That really looks like the good part here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
    • Once a movement has the dial and hands put back and it is recased, would you expect the assembled watch to have the same amplitude as when the movement is in a movement holder and is without hands and dial? Thanks
    • C07641+ not sure what the "+" is for after the last digit.
×
×
  • Create New...