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Seiko 2205-0240 Teardown


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This evenings victim is a Seiko from December of 1970. The only issue other than being a daily wear for some mod rocker back in the day is the crown has no click. Winding, time and date changes as normal but something is amiss in the keyless work.

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My fabulous-ly inexpensive tool for unscrewing casebacks will not shrink small enough to capture the grooves so a moments thought and some rearranging of the bits allows us to get started.

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Checking the inside of the back for service marks shows no entry, screw heads seem undisturbed by other rookies such as myself and of course I have forgotten to set the time to allow easy removal of the hands. Reinserting the crown and stem and using hand pullers with plastic bag leaves the dial in pretty good shape even with my clumsy handling. 


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Of course you folks see it although I didn't: the adapter ring is still around the movement barring access to the dial feet screws. Looking around we see two screws at the tip of the tweezers that look like they will do the job. Sure enough the ring drops away and the foot screws can be loosened on either side of of the dial. 

 

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Removing the dial while looking for a washer underneath we see the broken spring end laying on the date wheel. Of course all this manipulation without a movement holder will probably cause more trouble later. But at least without the dial getting squished we now secure this tiny movement a little more properly.

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Removing the weight reveals the winding mechanism. Depressing button just above the crown allows stem to be replaced, then held while holding the click just below the stem to take the small residual power away after all this abuse. Amplitude seems quite minimal but not unexpected since I've probably squished things pretty good a few times up to this point. 

Feeling pretty intimidated at this point, put everything away until tomorrow night. See you then!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The click on these is Seiko's typical sheet steel. I had a 4205 (similar except the 4205 uses a balance bridge, not a cock) where the part the holds the ratchet wheel was worn and not holding back the ratchet wheel. I gently bent the click into a 'V' shape to bring it in closer and problem solved. I usually have organ donors for other Seiko movements but not for these.

Something you might consider if yours is similarly worn.

Anilv

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    • glad it worked out, those ESA movements are obsolete but new old stock is still out there, now that you know the make/model you could also do a cross reference to see if something more current would line up with the dial feet and hands...for future use if needed 👍
    • I wish they would have done so in this case. The whole story went like this: I sent my speedmaster to an omega service center about 10 years ago (at that point of time I haven't even started watchmaking). After the watch came back to me it had only about 6 months wristtime until january 2024 (not fair for this nice watch but the other pieces of my collection want wristtime too 🙂). So my conclusion is that the barrel was already faulty when it came back from service, can't imagine that amount of wear in 6 months wristtime. In january 2024 the performance on the wrist was quite bad, so I decided to have a look by myself. I have to admit that I didn't check the barrel close enough as I thought it must be ok, couldn't have issues after official omega service. That was a mistake, I will learn from that. Follow the golden rule: Nothing is certain except death and taxes.
    • I am same as you oldhippy I won’t touch anything with a battery, I keep getting requests to but I just say I only do mechanical clocks, there are quite a few errors & omissions with the repair guide have a look at this. https://mb.nawcc.org/wiki/Encyclopedia-Subjects/Torsion-Clocks/Book:Horolovar-400-Day-Clock-Repair-Guide-10th-Edition-Errors-and-Updates
    • Nice experiment. As it will be no problem, please put a twice less mass (half of the two penies) and read the amplitude, will be interesting. I mean to determine what is the relation torque/amplitude.
    • parts touching that aren't supposed to touch definitely would cause an issue. there not supposed to be touching there supposed to be independent which means that @VWatchie is correct that the ratchet wheel has no effect on performance. so if the ratchet wheel in your particular case is touching that is definitely going to be an issue and needs to be addressed. did you know that the Swatch group service centers do not change mainsprings? Swatch group service centers have an infinite supply of spare parts so they just change the mainspring barrel the whole thing. Plus anything else the watchmaker doesn't like just gets replaced like anything related to the escapement they just replace the components because they can.
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