I'm a web developer/watch nerd, and I have been building a web app for awhile for tracking real world performance of my watches. Initially, I was building it for myself as I wasn't satisfied with the existing offerings. But after lots of heavy use and tweaking, I recently decided to open it up for free public use. I posted about it a couple days ago on the r/watches Reddit, but it occurred to me this may be an even more fitting community for sharing the tool.
Although, at this point, the app is pretty much custom tailored for my personal use, I do think it has a pretty nice feature set that most watch enthusiasts might find useful. I'd love for any of you to try it out and share any feedback you might have; my new goal is to make this the go to standard tool of its sort.
Reddit post for those interested:
Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
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Thanks for the reply! I live in the US and I do have most of the stuff I need. I do have a full set of Moebius greases and oils as well. Looking at the 1900 for a while now, so I'll probably pick that up. As I said, I have a pretty good set of tools including hand levers, Presto Tools, Bergeon Screwdrivers, Dumont tweezers, loupes and other magnifiers, movement bed, Bergeon hand oilers and pots, Bergeon movement-holder, pith and peg wood, Rodico, etc, etc, etc. I have a couple of Seagull 6498s and a Seagul 2824-2 to practice destroying....er.....assembling and reassembling.
you left out an important detail by the way? A lot of this depends upon where you live.. One of the recommendations I like to give beginners is purchasing a brand-new 6497 Chinese clone as the Swiss originals too expensive in the clone works just fine.. Then you definitely want a timegrapher iin the beginning there very cheap now compared to what they once cost either the Chinese 1000 or the 1900 are both excellent machines. So if you have a new timing machine and a new watch you can llearn how to properly time things on the machine. You can look at your brand-new watch see how it functions. Then you can taken apart and put it back together and put it back on the timing machine and see if it still functions. Timing machines are more than just timing their diagnostic devices. There's so many questions newbies ask where if they just a timing machine it would help narrow the problem down considerably. Does not like you can hold the watch to your four head and absorb the knowledge of its problems you need ways of doing diagnostics. Then unfortunately magnetized watches don't run well they will have issues. aa unfortunate problem with watch repair is that is a heck of a lot of specialty tools that sooner or later would be really nice to have.. As long a basic tools you have to have. Then when you get in the lubrication is some of those are nice to have an they're not exactly cheap so this isn't exactly a really cheap hobby.
The latest 404 club member. A very new looking, but slightly broken "Sekonda Classique" branded skeletonized Chinese standard movement full hunter pocket watch. Listed as not working, spares or repair, it cost 99p plus shipping. The click spring was broken and the original movement holder is missing. The donors I have, all had had various different arrangement of barrel bridge and click spring, and none matched, so I swapped the whole lot. Barrel with mainspring, barrel bridge and click. The mechanisms are very easy to work on, and in general parts from one variant of the "Standard" movement have a good chance of fitting in another, but obviously not always. It is now running nicely, and looks quite attractive, although the over all build quality is not spectacular.